On the table, chef Jin Choi delivers with poise and elegance. There’s sublime savouriness in raw wagyu beef wrapped around a core of enoki mushrooms with a ponzu sauce, and pleasing spikes of Sichuan pepper in rich plum sauce to accompany lean duck breast smoked with oolong tea.

In the four years since he arrived at HVR, Choi has tempered the excesses of his creativity – relaxing the dark soy tones of his signature wagyu brisket, and achieving great balance throughout a la carte four-course meals and eight-course degustations. However, the cost for such luxury, in an enclosed veranda of Mount Lofty House, is steep – up to $650 a couple for the full feast with matching wines.

At this price, every aspect needs to shine, and HVR delivers, with its picturesque views over the Piccadilly Valley, precise attention to detail with service, elegant table settings and pristine glassware.

Beware the dense wine bible, for its expensive jewels from around the world reach up to $1600 Burgundy and $2900 baralo, and wine by the glass, while expertly chosen, ranges from $16 to $60.

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