There’s something about HER that’ll catch your eye. Maybe it’s the way she looks, dressed in soft pink tones and chestnut leather. Or the way her warm glow makes you feel instantly at-home. She’s sophisticated but doesn’t take herself too seriously, loves art, knows her way around a kitchen and bar and has a wild sense of fun.

Maybe you could get to know HER, the new mega-project by the Arbory and Arbory Afloat team.

The new girl in town has been on the cards by HQ Group for yonks, but in February, it finally opened Melbourne’s vertical playground for adults, with four venues across five levels to run amok under the one roof.

No doubt you’ve seen heaving HER Rooftop bar on socials, read about the fast-paced Thai BBQ canteen BKK, or wondered about the mysterious music room spinning vinyl till late, but why climb those calf-punishing stairs when you can visit Paris via HER Bar on ground level.

She’s the dark horse of the lot.

For disclosure, I had been to HER’s loftier attractions before, stopping in for some face-burning laab at BKK before knocking back a few coldies on the rooftop.

HER Bar is nothing like its siblings. Things are quieter, less crowded and more relaxed. It’s also only one of the four open from dawn till late.

The point of difference here is the food and drink. Wine director Marcus Ellis (Melbourne Wine Room) makes a serious play with his approachable list, appealing to both premier cru champagne chuggers and pet nat quaffers. There’s an impressive by-the-glass-offering (with premium pours of red and white burgundy) and plenty of Euro and Aussie bottles.

On-tap pre-mix cocktails (featured across all HER levels), as well as the shaken and stirred kind can come in half pours if you’re driving.

Head chef Josh Rudd’s French bistro fare is a choose-your-own adventure. Build a meal out of small bites, which could be Mount Zero olives or a golden fried salted white fish and leek croquettes (fancy fish finger), or a charcuterie board piled high with capacolla or bresaola.

WA scallops come served in their shell, bobbing in a bayleaf butter sauce and sourdough parmesan crumble on top that’s salty and sea like. Yum.

Slips of Hiramasa kingfish from South Australia are lightly cured and served simply over sour cream and decorated with cucumbers, toasted sunflower seeds and florals. Refreshing and pretty as a picture.

Go flat out French with escargot, curls of plump imported snail served sans shell in a cast iron dish, allowing easier access for you to mop up pools of garlic butter with executive chef Nick Bennett’s rye sourdough.

But the duck frites is a must.

Aged for 10 to 14 days then cooked to rosy pink perfection, the tender meat has a millimetre-thin layer of skin that’s to die for. Extra points for the side of fries and slurp-from-the-jug good sauce that has the right amount of herby parsley tang. More please.

Who says the French can’t do pasta? The parisienne gnocchi, made from a decadent choux pastry base with zingy dijon and parmesan, props pillowy parcels on a countering broccoli creme with crunchy sugar snap peas and furry layer of Ossau-Iraty cheese. It’s outrageously good. This is how I’ll have my gnocchi from now on, thanks.

If there’s room for dessert, the violet cream is a no-brainer, all tart blackberry, chewy chocolate sponge and crunchy honeycomb. The perfect full stop to a night of fabulous eating.

HER Bar could so easily be overlooked, written off as just another on-trend place the kids are raving about. But with seriously good cooking and a rocking wine list, man, she’s something else.

Related reviews: Untitled is the stunning new Richmond restaurant and bar that needs no introduction