Art, architecture and atmosphere aplenty sets the tone for a truly Ace adventure at the city’s newest and decidedly coolest hotel, from the US-based group of the same name. DJs play tunes in the pumping ground floor bar next to the bare brick, below-street-level lobby lounge (open to all), eclectic Aussie art works and desert orange-ochre tones blaze beyond the black-framed old-style hotel awning streetside. Here’s the latest and best eating, drinking and sleeping destination for the city-meets-Surry end of town.

So you already feel excited heading up to Kiln, the 18^th floor bar and diner with close-on 360 degree city views. Spot an Opera House sail between downtown towers and Hyde Park greenery. A pile of logs – native ironbark and fruitwoods – in the window behind reception fuels the open char-grill flames inside. And, in line with the vibe, cool ‘n’ clever chef Mitch Orr – he of the dark spectacle frames and side-shaved hairstyle – is there at the pass.

You could be excited enough to be here that food and drinks simply take second place to the fine-design interiors – black frames, orange disc tables, tan-and-blue banquettes, terrazzo-ish linen wall panels drawing from leftover building materials and the basement history as a 1800s kiln, producing domestic fire-baked pottery. (Check the wall of paint-splashed bricks in the foyer on your way out. Ah, now it all makes sense!) Terraces and retractable roofs add extra dimensions.

Related story: Mitch Orr to head up new wood-fired rooftop restaurant Kiln in Surry Hills 

Cocktail shakers clatter, a switched-up playlist thrums, a complimentary lemon myrtle gimlet lands from switched-on young serving staff. Australia-meets-the-world wine picks (from PNV’s Mike Bennie) and a list of small, smaller and larger plates, veg (all vegan) and non-veg alike, distract you briefly from what’s around you – busy tables, a bar-and-snacks area, and did we mention those views?

But once the first pretty dish lands, maybe a signature Mitch Orr anchovy and smoked butter curled on jatz, or really good wapengo oysters bathed in pomelo and kombu oil, you’ll cotton on: the kitchen side of Kiln is seriously special, too. First for the produce – super seasonal, fresh, top drawer delicious. But then for the sauces and dressings that accompany everything from a single oyster mushroom (brushed with a fermented onion glaze) to cracked, grilled, eat-with-your-fingers marron halves zinged with desert lime and long pepper.

It’s all about colour too, on deeply hued, textured ceramics. Pink circles of raw alfonsino (a firm red-snapper family fish) shimmer beside peach and tomato jelly. Shiny green peas, pods and white asparagus spears are poised over a milky-sharp vin jaune and soy emulsion. Flame-caramelised coral trout is lapped by a pistachio-green base sauce, layered with burnt lemon and coconut. A serve of fluffy rice (organic Australian-grown koshihikari) hints at konbu and ginger tones, and is just the thing for spooning up the last of those magic sauces.

And as for the soft-sticky spoonfuls of steamed choc cake, sparked with ultra-tart orange sorbet, or Orr’s famous caramel popcorn ice-cream medley…

You don’t need to come to Kiln for the food. But you really should. Mitch Orr is a genius chef and this is a very exciting place to be. 

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