Chef Harunobu (Haru) Inukai has a seriously smart CV. It features multi-Michelin’d man, the late French legend Joel Robuchon, and a long stint with an Aussie equivalent, the late great Tony Bilson.

Departing from the modern French game, Chef Haru’s solo innings have served up handmade noodles in a Chinatown food court, beautiful Japanese-French fusion food in Elizabeth Bay and more recently, Darlinghurst’s best limited-edition ramen and robata (charcoal) grill goodness. Each piece of that impressive puzzle comes together in Gaku Omakase – a luxury cooking comeback paired with the sheer practicality of smaller-scale staffing.

For long-time Chef Haru fans, it’s an enticing return to the very fine dining space, with truffle, foie gras, toro (tuna belly), abalone, caviar, lobster and top-shelf wagyu in swift procession along the 10 course menu. Timing is tight and there’s a lot of luxury to get through.

But we’re still dreaming about that foie gras monaka (in a burger-shaped wafer case), truffle-topped spanner crab chawanmushi, the crisp, caviar-laden sea treasure ball, and the most melting wagyu tenderloin, sirloin and skirt. And sea-sweet sushi with fluffy yet al dente massigura rice, and chewy ramen in perfumed duck yuzu or clam soy broth.

Nothing short of spectacular – with a price point ($280 plus drinks) to match. Unlike the reverential silence of a Japan-based omakase, the Sydney version tends to morph into a party.

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While the focus is on the food prep in front of you (so impressive to see Chef Haru and longtime chef partner Shimon Hanakura precision slicing, grilling and grating), sharing taste after taste on high stools along a communal counter has a way of cementing new-best-friend relationships with fellow food-lovers.

(That means you, Merlin and Kim and Meylia – thanks for your fun company. Shame that an Aussie icon rock star and wife, and a former delicious. colleague, lined up outside weren’t at our sitting too. Clearly, this is The Place To Be. Chef selfies also allowed.)

Proudly wearing his signature Tony Bilson bow-tie, chef will duck over to suggest sake choices and point out dish intricacies, if asked.

And yes, there’s more than a touch of Japanese kitsch about the serving styles – a little birdcage apparatus over the sea treasure, tiny bows and bowls with cute lids, all sourced at great expense from Japan, chef tells us proudly.

“We must be perfect in front of our customers. We are always nervous. However, when we talk to our customers, their smiles become medicine and we become joy,” he says.

The joy is mutual, chef. Thank you.

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