You may have already heard about Rekōdo, a new listening bar that has just opened its doors at Barangaroo House. Japanese food, funky tracks – sounds cool, right? But there’s more to this jazz kissaten than meets the ears.

The Japanese-inspired restaurant and bar has taken over from boring middle child Bea in Matt Moran’s three-level Barangaroo party palace. The mega venue already has a DJ on every other level, but Rekodo brings something different to the mix. Instead of the pop-rock and hip-hop at House Bar and Smoke, you’ll find a smooth soundtrack of funk and soul tunes, crisply amplified on a high-end stereo system.

Moran has invested in some pretty impressive audio equipment for his latest gig, including twin McIntosh MT2 Turntables and a pair of Klipsch La Scala speakers. It’s a shame that no one’s actually listening. Diners here are as loud as anywhere, but the DJ manages to keep the pace, adjusting the sound and tempo to reflect the energy levels. At the very least, it’s an immersive dining experience.

The level one dining room has been given a modern Japanese makeover, with the interiors rejigged to improve the acoustics. Shiny tiles and reflective surfaces have been traded up for timber, while ruffled curtains work to absorb sound.

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As for the menu, head chef Paddy McDermott (ex-Pirata Group Hong Kong) has put together a new-age playlist of Japanese share plates. If you’re only staying for a few tracks, stick to the snacks which include golden koi-shaped waffles, filled with a kimchi and fontina filling. They’re best washed down with a Japanese whisky, with over 50 tipples behind the bar. Nori tartlets are piled high with diced kingfish and glowing green tobiko – but at $26 each, they might cause shockwaves when the bill comes out.

Commit to the whole album and there’s more than enough dishes to create a meal. The chirashi don stuns with the quality of its seafood. Glistening fans of tuna, salmon and kingfish are spooned by jumbo prawns, scorched squid and bright mustard sea urchin. Crank up the heat with fresh wasabi root, served with a riveted board for grating. Meanwhile, dashi soy is delivered in giant koi fish tubes, a cute play on the sushi shop staple. The greatest hit of the night is the agedashi tofu which cleverly riffs on potstickers, the bouncy curds bound together with a lacy dumpling skirt.

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The menu transitions smoothly to desserts. A banoffee chawanmushi dials up the sweetness to 11, layered with miso caramel, whipped cream and scorched bananas. It’s delicious but lacks the subtlety of its savoury cousin.

For those who can’t handle choosing a song – let alone picking a dish – the menu also includes an omakase option for $95 per person.

While Rekōdo may not fit the traditional model of a Japanese listening bar, with food this good and grooves to match, Matt Moran certainly has another banger on his hands.