Jonathan Barthelmess’s fun Japanese diner is a long, modern lightbox of a place with polished concrete, whitewashed bricks and a large communal bar where a covetable manual ice shaver has us thirsty for the cocktail menu. Like the interior, the menu is refined yet cheeky with a Japanese tilt – think tempura okra, prawns in kombu butter and katsu steamed buns. The green tea soft serve has become an iconic dessert and you’ll find the grassy, herbal whip to be even more refreshing than an after-dinner matcha. Yuzu brulee is dessert crack, with a smooth-as-kimono-silk custard topped with a shattering toffee lid. 73 Macleay St, Potts Point; chochosan.com.au.

Itō head chef, Erik Ortolani reimagines a Japanese izakaya with creative dishes such as yellowfin tuna, served on bonito bread with shaved bottarga or Wagyu mafaldine paired with white shimeji and miso at the former Cuckoo Callay site on Crown Street. 413-415 Crown Street, Surry Hills; itorestaurant.com

The omakase menu at Sokyo is designed for Japanese foodies who, like Jiro, dream of sushi. Salmon belly, BBQ freshwater eel, scampi, scallop, prawn and sea urchin sit on seasoned rice that has the telltale feel-every-grain-on-your-tongue precision demanded of the best sushi masters in Japan. If you can’t get a place at the counter, chef Chase Kojima’s a la carte menu in the restaurant is just as impressive. Level G, The Darling The Star, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont; star.com.au.

Step into the vibrant world of Tanuki, a multi-space modern Japanese restaurant and bar by the team who brought us Matteo. The venue comes complete with a raw bar, robata grill, internal courtyard and an ever-evolving Japanese inspired beverage offering, seamlessly transitioning into a late-night dining lounge. 37 Bay St, Double Bay; https://tanukisydney.com/.

Ask any rockstar chef where the best ramen is and they’re likely to answer with two words: Chaco Bar. The hole-in-the-wall Japanese joint offers ramen by day and yakitori by night, and you’ll want to try both. Swing by late for sake swilling and delicious things on sticks, which go beyond the chicken thigh to include pork belly, beef tongue and smoky miso eggplant. 186-188 Victoria St, Potts Point; chacobar.com.au.

To write this place off as a slurp-and-dash noodle joint would be a huge mistake. Skip the lunchtime ramen rush and return in the evening, when mood lighting transforms the concrete interiors into a slinky backstreet haunt. While you wait for your broth to boil, make a head start on the snacks, which include miso-glazed eggplant, a crackling piggy roll and king prawn guacamole served with deep-fried gyoza skin chips. Ramen ranges from the famous kogashi, a charred chicken soup swirled with burnt flecks to a rich, luscious tonkotsu pork broth. 52-54 Albion St, Surry Hills; ippudo.com.au/gogyo.

Squeezed into the first floor of a laneway tower, above a hard-to-spot red neon sign and wild, kabuki-inspired foyer mural by street artist Lisa King, Besuto plays on the trend for intimate Japanese “trust the chef” omakase dining with an Aussie twist. Spanning 18 courses that change based on best-available produce, the set menu takes those who occupy the restaurant’s 12 seats on a communal eating journey, guided by ebullient chef Hiro Kano, and more demure sushi expert Hiro Fujita. 6 Loftus Ln, Sydney; besutosydney.com.

Home to four venues in one, this compartmentalised Japanese hub is like dining in your very own bento box. Choose from four very different dining experiences, including the a la carte restaurant Kuro Dining, degustation-only fine diner Teramoto by Kuro, specialty café Brew Bar, and drink spot Kuro Bar. The main restaurant (Kuro Dining) eschews the traditional sushi and sashimi for a string of modern Japanese snacks and share plates like the wagyu carpaccio with egg yolk jam and a prawn and Hokkaido scallop tart with Black River caviar. 368 Kent St, Sydney; kurosydney.com.

Sexy interiors, showy dishes and stunning views, that’s just the way that Sake rolls. This slick operation works just as well for intimate dinners as it does big groups and boisterous celebrations. Star chef Neil Perry has joined forces with Shaun Presland to create a modern fusion menu, which includes traditional sushi and sashimi all the way through to quirky Asian mash-ups. Outposts in The Rocks, Double Bay and Manly Wharf; sakerestaurant.com.au.

It’s not hard to see why Nobu is one of the most famous Japanese restaurants in the world. Even if you’re not a fan of fusion food, you can’t help but be impressed by the perfectly executed plates that span Japanese and Peruvian cuisine predominantly, with a touch of everywhere else. Whether you’re dining in New York, Milan or Sydney (Nobu number 43, to be exact) one thing remains the same, the miso-glazed black cod, which has charmed critics since the 80s. Sushi and sashimi remain a highlight, as do the tacos loaded with luxe toppings like lobster and wagyu beef. Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo; crownsydney.com.au/indulge/nobu.