There are two menus at this moody (very) fine diner but only one choice to make: whether you opt for the original tasting menu – with no fewer than 13 individual dishes – or the omakase, a tasting menu on steroids, bedazzled with truffle and caviar.

Dishes are small to start: just one or two bites. There are insanely pretty tarts, cigars of tuna-topped toast, mouthfuls of scampi and kingfish, and a hunk of croissant bread supplied by sister bakery LoDe in Surry Hills. From there, things get a little more substantial. A dish of mud crab comes with fresh corn and Japanese custard; scallop sashimi is lifted with nashi pear and radish; cod is served with ribbons of miso cabbage that could stand alone as a dish by itself. 

Then there’s tagliatelle – hand cut, served with Moreton Bay bug and a scampi XO bisque. Desserts, two of them, are fittingly elevated: yoghurt sorbet with a plum reduction and olive oil that turns syrupy in the cold, and another chilled dish that sings with white sesame. Somehow, even with everything that’s already been eaten, it’s impossible not to clear each plate.

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