Tables are white-clothed and the doors of the minimal modern building peel back to let in the sunlight and views of the vegetation-lined waterway and its procession of stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and boats on weekends.

Oysters and caviar kick off the menu, then there are snacks such as a nicely presented and appealing Fraser Isle spanner crab hash brown, before moving into antipasti including fritto misto, chargrilled octopus or ocean trout carpaccio.

A strong pasta line-up includes spaghetti twisting through an opulent mix of North Queensland lobster bisque, preserved lemon and grilled cherry tomatoes. Mains include lamb backstrap, wagyu eye fillet, carrot gnocchi with Mooloolaba prawns, or cacciucco, a very good version of the classic Tuscan seafood medley stew with tomato and white wine sauce and a couple of slices of grilled garlic crostini to help with mopping up operations. 

Dessert options abound but Italian meringue with shortcrust crumbs, sections of lime and passionfruit curd and coconut gelato is a pleasant, not-too-heavy conclusion. The wine list is lengthy, with a strong Italian presence, and a terrific by-the-glass list with plenty of Italian options. Service is relaxed yet professional and informed, doing justice to the serious work in the kitchen.

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