Recently opened restaurant Piatto may have just found the solution to the power shortages gripping Australia’s east coast: Leave guests in darkness. The Italian-inspired eatery at Mermaid Beach is confidently pushing the definition of “mood lighting”, with the room so dimly lit I’ve been in nightclubs that are brighter.

But the fact you need a torch to read the menu is also part of the venue’s rustic, inn-style charm, making a 6pm booking seem like a sophisticated, late-night outing (especially for parents who need to get back to the babysitter by 8.30pm).

The almost pitch-black space marks a dramatic change for owners the Pearce family, who previously had European-leaning restaurant Lupo in the same space.

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In March the clan divided the tenancy into two, creating Piatto – a tiny 16-seater offering a set three-course menu run by parents Thea and Brad; while son Harry and partner Missy Price have Cantina next door – a 20-seat, Spanish-leaning wine bar serving a simple list of vino and classic cocktails, alongside tapas-style bites, such as a bloody good crumbed and deep-fried mortadella sandwich.

At Piatto there are four sections to the menu: antipasti, primo, secondi and dolci, each featuring three dishes, with guests to choose any three courses for $79 per person.

Our charming young waitress suggests we opt for the primo and secondi as part of our three courses to ensure maximum value for money, and offers wine recommendations to match our selection from the two-page vino list, heavy with well-suited Italian drops.

From the antipasti section the plainly named “Ortiz anchovies, garlic bread” is a surprise standout, with two of the umami-rich fish reclining across a golden, spherical bread roll – its core soaked in a garlicky butter. Terrific!

Just as good is the prawn ravioli – with four shrimp-filled raviolo bathing in a creamy, tangy buttermilk sauce, the seafood flavour amped up by the restrained use of prawn oil. The deft touch with pasta continues with the mezze maniche – penne-like tubes loaded with a sophisticated spag bol of pork sausage mince and red capsicum.

For mains there’s an eggplant parmigiana – an unusual take on the vegetarian favourite featuring a long thin eggplant, sliced down the middle, and crumbed in a stiff bread mix before being fried till golden. It’s then topped with roasted cherry tomatoes, while a blanket of melted cheese drapes across its crisp surface next to a puddle of light tomato sugo. It’s solid but needs more of that red sauce.

The King George whiting is equally pared back with the single fillet of fish, met by a trio of mussels, sliced zucchini and cherry tomatoes. While Brad takes care of the savoury menu items, making a return from the Lupo days are Thea’s classic puddings.

Her signature date pud is every bit as memorable as it’s always been, with the sponge finding that perfect balance of lightness and moisture, while the sticky, caramel brandy sauce demands to be bottled.

They say change is as good as a holiday and for the Pearce family, this change is like a magical, long-awaited trip to the Italian Riviera, though it’s the diners who get to soak in the good times.