Josh Niland’s world-leading seafood restaurant continues to deliver a sustainably driven fin-to-scale feast that every foodie needs to experience at least once. Pull up a seat at the 12m Carrara marble counter where oysters are shucked and offcuts such as eyes, scales, bladder and roe are miraculously transformed into appetising dishes.

While not part of the degustation, the parfait with sweet and sour currants is “offaly” tempting, its texture as smooth as mousse with classic thyme and port wine flavours – you’d never guess it’s made with pink ling livers.

Meanwhile, anchovy on toast gets a Niland upgrade as King George whiting is salted then pickled in Champagne vinegar before being laid to rest on a bed of fruity green olives and hot buttered sourdough. Squid that was swimming only yesterday is used to create a “pasta” coated in a sauce of its own ink.

Lemon has long been the traditional accompaniment to seafood and it’s represented here in a gravity-defying citrus tart. The just-set texture and sweet-tart taste mark the perfect end to an extraordinary evening. Gone fishing: you have five months left to try Saint Peter at its Oxford Street location before it moves to The Grand National Hotel.

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