The namesake Lakes Entrance sardines will always be a familiar entry to owner-chef Mark Briggs’ seafood and Gippsland-driven menu, as will the creamy textural delight of the duckfish tartare with wonton crisps, but regulars can always mix up these familiar faves with seasonal proteins such as kingfish crudo, Western Plains pork belly or line-caught Australian cod.

A tiny, perfectly executed skewer of braised and chargrilled Mallacoota abalone and salt-baked celeriac takes inspiration from Briggs’ Vue de monde days.

Sardine has evolved slightly to meet the challenges of the past two years; there are now two-hour sittings, shorter opening hours, a digital wine list accessed by QR code and Aesop sanitiser on tables.

Most notably, the six-year-old Sardine now has a sibling; Sardine Cantina is a casual wine bar and providore that is better placed to deliver Victorian charcuterie and international cheeses to passersby, while also serving as a handy back-up for restaurant diners who want to linger longer than their two hours next door.

Sure, Sardine is a tad more exxy than it was pre-pandemic, but them’s the breaks of a restaurant that has weathered the storm and emerged stronger than ever.

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