Meticulously landscaped gardens wrap around an imposing jetblack building. It’s all terribly, terribly smart and can be very busy in the “adults-only” outdoor playpen where petanque is a popular pursuit. Indoors, an impressive collection of contemporary Australian art, including pieces by Olsen and Blackman, line the walls of the restaurant.

Here chef Ali Seedman concocts generous dishes loaded with flavour and contrasting textures in the vein of Ottolenghi (you won’t leave hungry). Even the green side salad, buttressed with apple, avocado, and goat’s cheese, could double as a main. Entrees are big: blue swimmer crab spaghettini piled high with fried capers and parsley; or brioche loaded with field mushrooms, topped with fat ribbons of parmesan.

Mains are more substantial again. The potato gnocchi with roasted butternut squash would stop a hungry footballer in their tracks. A side of salt and vinegar baby brussels sprouts proves a tasty alternative to spuds. Only the pluckiest diner would have room for dessert, perhaps an affogato with Hahndorf gelato.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.