It’s all about elevated, interesting, produce-driven fare, fine dining without pomp and pretence, where every little detail – from tasting menu to hospitality – is golden.

Oysters are always a good idea, here served with a house-fermented rockmelon and black pepper vinaigrette (head chef Tony Schifilliti has a penchant for fermentation). Then there are platters of snacks: kangaroo tartare tacos, tomato tarts with beeswax-infused lemon oil, pecorino doughnuts with aged gouda.

As things become more substantial, chefs deliver their dishes directly to the table, humbly listing each component as if what they’ve plated up isn’t art in itself. There’s snapper with cucumber, Murray cod, poached Spencer Gulf squid (served with fried broccolini and koji, deserving of its own award) and wagyu rump cap – all simple on paper, all astounding in real life.

Dessert is equally impressive: mead vinegar custard with strawberry consomme and frozen raspberry and a sticky, caramelised apple creation that may leave you wondering if the meal could get any better. Wondering, that is, until the petit fours arrive.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.