Sandwiched between Happy Boy and Kid Curry is middle child Snack Man, demanding attention with a wide range of Chinese street food and small-plate options teamed with an eclectic wine list of lesser-seen European varieties. This unusual combination is going off like a cracker.

The menu/wine list is an A4 piece of paper printed on both sides, with the day’s wines by the glass and specials projected on the wall. This no-frills approach helps keep prices well within value territory. Despite the bar vibe, the food refuses to play second fiddle, with a wide choice and big flavours; the menu working through dumplings, buns, rice and noodles to big snacks, with the $30 slow-cooked beef rib in master stock the most expensive offering. It’s a good size with heartily-flavoured meat falling from the bone.

Even a plate of steamed gai lan gets the super-sized flavour treatment courtesy of a house smoked oyster sauce. Steamed pinched buns filled with spiced veg are delicious, as are the salt and pepper prawns on a buttered bun. Food arrives very quickly, so order a little at a time if you want to enjoy a few drinks with snacks in between.

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