Do you know All Rhodes Lead to Bondi? Combining gin, pear, fino, fresh lemon and a touch of almond, this is actually a cocktail – a lively, Greek-island-named number. Along with several other drinks on a witty list – Hydra Spritz, Meltemi Margarita among them – it sets the scene for an Aegean adventure, only not in Mediterranean parts but right across from the Pacific waves.

The new kid on the Bondi block – the name means “local” – is the latest sparkling opening for the Point Group, the brains and talent behind Shell House, the biggest Sydney City hit of 2021.

In a bright, light, white and blue-themed dining room and bar, pale wood-and-wicker chairs, dusty-blue napkins and matching banquettes, and waitstaff in Grecian white enhance a Hellenic look and feel. Along with its ocean-facing meze bar and outdoor tables next door, lots of smiles, cheery greetings and local staff (ex Totti’s, the Bucket List etc) certainly set this newbie up for success.

So does the food. Sticking pretty tightly to the Greek script, it’s an I-want-it-all kind of shareable selection – from smooth and punchy taramasalata topped with fish roe bubbles to neatly laid-out sardines on pita-bread toast, decorated with tomato, lemon and dill. Thanks to a wood oven out back, house-baked pita is a warm, fragrant, toasty puff, just begging to be dipped and scooped and dipped again.

While wood-fired ockie with spanaki (spinach) sauce is straight from the textbook and stickily melting, a little bowl of spanner crab mixed with herby rice is a fun, DIY take on dolmades (stuffed vine leaves). An accompanying set of fresh leaves – shiso, radicchio, betel, and more – means you can make your own juicy little leafy parcels. Nice.

Also from the wood-oven in a small round cast-iron pan is a riff on a classic pita pastry, filled with feta and sweet peppers. A similar slant is taken with a custard-filled dessert (bougatsa) drizzled with orange-flavoured olive oil and walnuts. While both could be just a little crunchier on the bottom, it is early days for the kitchen crew. (We were here for the second service!)

Drawing on the best contemporary Greek vintages and blends, the wine list is definitely something to explore, with the help of savvy staff. There are Greek digestives and ouzo, and judging by lots of seriously energetic shaker action behind the full-length bar, those cocktail creations are getting a workout. While Greek coffee is sadly not on offer, a watermelon slice pressed with ouzo and sharp with julienne-d sorrel is a brilliant digestive/dessert option.

All in all, Topikos offers a pretty fine time. Tables heave with the ntopioi (Greek for “locals”) – the Bondi beautiful and not-so – plus large groups sharing slow-cooked lamb shoulder and eggplant moussaka, Topikos-style.

There’s atmosphere a-plenty. Enough to imagine you might be on Mykonos, if only for an hour or two. And feeling like a local.

Related review: Civico 47 brings a new era of Italian dining to the old Lucio’s site