Sit back, relax and enjoy the weekend vibe anytime at the revamped The Tropic.

Idyllically situated on Manly Wharf, it lives up to the old advertising slogan “Manly, seven miles from Sydney and a thousand miles from care”. But there’s nothing old school about The Tropic – it’s modern, fun and approachable.

This is the separate dining room for the Manly Wharf Hotel. Not a pub, rather light, bright, beachside chic with polished concrete floors, timber and muted tones in perfect sync with its location.

Perch on a stool at a high terrazzo table to take in the view, face towards the open kitchen, sit at tables inside, or book one of the five umbrellaed banquettes outside. Just be sure to have your hat and sunglasses as the sun goes down. Outside, too, the pumping music fades into the background as the light changes in the sky and on the water.

Food from chef Francois Poulard, lured across the harbour from Chiswick restaurant in Woollahra, focuses on seafood. Much more than elevated pub food, small plates and pasta are ideal to share.

Lovely smoky padron peppers dusted with sea salt; school prawns with crisp heads and shells yet juicy insides served with spicy lime chilli mayo; or three tender scallops grilled on the shell, bathed in butter with a zing of lemon and finished with crumbs.

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There are also oysters, prawn cocktail, kingfish sashimi and a serious seafood platter. Yet vegetarians and carnivores alike are looked after – and you’ve got to love the options of steak frites or lobster frites. Perhaps ask for a break before your mains are served as they can come very promptly.

Pasta offerings appeal with pipis + chorizo spaghettini leading the charge, an enticing combo of pipis in the shell, diced chorizo, red chilli, cherry tomatoes and wilted spinach topped with green onions.

Blue swimmer crab mafaldine (frilly flat, wide ribbon pasta) lacks this finesse, the pasta, whole snow peas and large dill sprigs dominating the delicate pieces of crab. However, fish is well and simply handled.

Perhaps a pan-fried fillet of snapper with a seasonal salad of fennel, orange and rocket beside a dollop of dill yoghurt. Light and fresh it almost makes a side of green leaves with radicchio, red sorrel, endive and lambs tongue superfluous.

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There are two desserts or cheese on offer. A crisp disc of meringue conceals a bowl of mango compote, with puree and a few diced pieces with cream and coconut. It is not too sweet and quite light but lacks excitement.

The wine list, however, is a joy. Well constructed yet concise with interesting choices of Australian and imported wines, all suited to the Mediterranean influenced menu. There are some big ticket classics but also more reasonably priced and great options of small, large glass or bottle. Chilled reds and rosés are also suited to the summertime environment.

Cocktails are fresh and simple and equally appealing. Staff, clad in beachside smart attire of white tees with beige shorts or skirts, are young and friendly if not all super experienced but have a cheerful willingness to ensure customers have a good time. How can you not?

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