It’s pronounced oon-de-bar (which is Swedish for wonderful), chef-owner Derek Boath and partner Lucy Taylor are moving their fine diner of six years to a new home in September – downsizing from 16 to 14 seats. And the third? It’s as exceptional as ever.

The farm-to-table degustation will take you on a journey through Ballarat and beyond, via Japan and France. Minimal intervention is the game, with produce plucked from nearby organic farms and mum-and-dad growers, inspiring an ever-changing menu dependent on what’s fresh and best.

The food is held up by impressive service and a hyper-local modern wine list that can be enjoyed by half or full pours, by the bottle or matched with each meal. From that first soul-warming scoop of Japanese egg custard bursting fresh with sweet corn and spanner crab to roasted cod and prawn meat nori roll riffing alongside a seed and nut curry, Boath’s skill surpasses anything in sight.

Even after the taste of freshly made croissant loaves and your last mouthful of lemon tea dissipates, you’ll be thinking of excuses to come back for more. There’s no hotter seat in town.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.