There’s a delicious irony to getting drenched while trying to find the spin-off of Farmer’s Daughters at Federation Square. Melbourne’s infamous four seasons in one day strike before we find the coyly hidden entrance (hint: it’s in the riverside Yarra Building, tucked around the corner from Big Esso) but it’s also a reminder that there’s plenty to be thankful for in our blustery southern state.

Victoria – the sequel to the restaurant singing a song of Gippsland from the top end of Collins St – spreads the love state-wide, with excellent results.

Have you ever wondered where your spuds come from? Here, a golden raft of crunchy carb – the menu calls it a rosti but our vote’s with potato cake – hails from the Otways, its crown of cured scallop meat from Bass Strait.

Sandwiching a smoosh of avocado, the two-bite assembly is like the love child of a party canape and everyone’s favourite breakfast smash.

Related story: Big Esso brings Torres Strait Island fare to Federation Square 

Seasonal and local are much abused buzzwords in modern dining but Victoria gives no cause for cynicism. It’s a flag-waving showcase of state pride, including a quietly sophisticated fit-out featuring a topographic regional map, locally made sculptures and a table laden with the produce du jour, inviting diners to touch and smell before they take their seats.

It took a Peruvian, executive chef Alejandro Saravia, to take the State of Origin concept and run with it. His connections have enabled the creation of a 3000-strong all-Victorian wine list dripping with private local vintages and other exclusive drops. Wine masterclasses highlighting the 21 wine regions and its artisan producers are part of the Victoria masterplan, as are three-month “region in residence” menus celebrating different parts of each state (Ballarat kicks off the program at the start of September).

But please don’t worry about this being the kind of restaurant that requires any explanation to enjoy. There’s no need to know the free-range chicken, pressed into a grunty almost-terrine topped with fried chicken skin crackle, comes from Bannockburn near Geelong. Nor that the cultured butter, so beautifully sour it practically segues into cheese, is from Caldermeade Farm and its spongy sourdough sidekick from Cobb Lane.

And it’s easy to enjoy the theatre of the open kitchen where a woodfire and charcoal grill lend their campfire appeal to a roll call of proteins and vegetables. An O’Connor butchers cut packing full-flavoured, charry appeal needs only a bright salsa verde and a hedgerow of leaves to make an impression. Beautifully fresh calamari (Lakes Entrance, since you asked) similarly gets its char on, then adds a tangy thick yoghurt, broccoli leaf and lemon.

And the rest of the package? The dining room glows with mood-lit warmth (very important to shivering Melbourne-ites) while a broad river-facing balcony screams “spritz season”. The team of young staff are making their generation proud, while desserts like a torched floating island meringue in a Willy Wonka-esque soup of chocolate custard make last impressions count.

There’s a sincerity of purpose here but above all, simply delicious food. Victoria, you’re making us proud.

Related review: Julian Hills’ Navi Lounge is a savvy addition to Melbourne’s bar scene