Even so, sitting in the beautifully preserved old barn that serves as the restaurant, it is easy to leave all this behind as lunch begins with a sip of one of the beverages produced by talented co-owner/brewer/winemaker Alan Varney, who also did much of the restoration. 

Chef Chris Bone has put together a menu that, for all its fashionable touchpoints – native ingredients, Japanese flavours et cetera – still feels fresh and original. Agnolotti parcels filled with minced guinea fowl and chestnut bobbing about in an aged celeriac brodo are a case in point, though the pasta isn’t exactly silken.

On the other hand, ox tongue skewers, brushed with miso and mushroom shoyu butter as they grill, are stupendous, and well worth the extra money needed. The other standout, also requiring a supplement, is a cleverly constructed ballotine of Coorong mullet fillet wrapped about a farce of minced carp belly, the two fish working wonderfully together.

To finish, a “Weis” bar featuring layers of vanilla and persimmon parfait get the points over an eclair of wattleseed, chestnut, pear and parsnip. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.