There’s paddock-to-plate and farm-to-table, but how about butcher to bowl?

That’s the carnivorous concept being rolled out at Andrews Indooroopilly in Brisbane’s west. Inside sprawling Indooroopilly Shopping Centre, beloved butcher Andrews has cleverly opened a grill-style cafe just a T-bone toss from its shop, serving its top-notch meat cooked in front of you.

Surrounded by wooden stools and whisky barrels for tables, the eatery does all it can to create ambience in a busy shopping haunt, but customers aren’t deterred by the lack of flashy fit-out, forming large queues for a taste of its meaty morsels.

The order-at-the-counter affair serves breakfast until 11.30am with classics such as eggs Benedict, double smoked ham and eggs, and a butcher’s big breakfast; while lunch ranges from steaks and whole barbecued chickens to burgers, wraps and rolls.

There’s also a hot box at the counter filled with everything from colossal, super fatty, slow-cooked beef ribs to house-made sausage rolls and meat pies. A roast chicken and gravy roll special seems to be the order of the day, flying out of the kiosk’s kitchen by the dozen; while Angus beef burgers are another popular choice.

Related review: Every night is taco night at this Mexican spot in Brisbane

The signature Andrews burger ($18.90) comes with the works – a beef patty, lettuce, tomato, onion, pineapple, cheese, beetroot, bacon and a fried egg on a floured bun – and is a two-handed situation that requires a Hulk-sized mouth and hunger to consume with the generous side of crispy beer-battered chips. It’s a solid version of a fish and chip shop favourite.

On the steak front, there’s five to choose from, from the budget-friendly (read: dirt cheap) $15.90 250g grass-fed rump, to the premium wagyu sirloin with a 9+ marble score for just $42, that would have even fancy steakhouse enthusiasts making the switch to shopping centre dining.

All come with chips, salad and your choice of sauce, with the pepper gravy remarkably good over the top of a tender, bar-marked T-bone almost the size of a dinner plate, cooked to the medium-rare requested.

For a lighter lunch, there’s the warm poppy seed beef salad, loaded with fresh salad and herbs, topped with the requisite grilled meat. Drinks are kept to a minimum, with just a small bar fridge at the counter holding Coca-Cola, water and an assortment of gourmet flavours from Bundaberg Brewed Drinks. But you are at a shopping centre, with Woolworths next door should you wish to quench your thirst with something else.

With generous serves and keen prices, who knows how much money the tiny 3m x 3m kitchen actually makes, but it is fantastic marketing for the butchery next door.

This is like the old-fashioned shopping centre taste test, where butchers would hand out free samples of their sausages, only it’s smarter because they actually charge for it. Now passers-by can get a taste of the meat shop’s products, be hooked, and go buy them straight from the cabinet. Genius.