Review: Cenzo's is the unassuming Brisbane eatery serving up good vibes

Cenzo's Cafe + Bar, buffalo burger. Source: NewsCorp

This Upper Mount Gravatt cafe and bar will lift your spirits with its feel-good food.

There are some people and places that leave you feeling just a little better about the world. Cenzo’s Cafe + Bar in Brisbane’s Upper Mount Gravatt is one of those places.

The tiny suburban eatery is more no-frills than flashy to look at. Tucked into a strip of shops on a quiet backstreet, the venue’s seating is mostly on the footpath out the front with a mix of large and small tables, while inside there’s a charcoal and timber banquette that wraps around two walls opposite a black and white tiled bar and coffee station. But what gives Cenzo’s its unique and undeniable charm is the service.

Cenzo's Cafe + Bar. Source: NewsCorp

From the cheery greeting diners receive the moment they walk through the door to the engaging, knowledgeable assistance when placing orders at the counter and the amiable and genuine goodbye on departure, the staff deliver a warmth and kindness and passion for what they do that just makes you feel good.

Like that perfectly made coffee after only three hours’ sleep – it’s equal parts comforting and uplifting. And so is the food. The all-day menu is a line-up of classics done well, from the likes of Belgian waffles with vanilla mascarpone and berries to savoury mince on toast and corn fritters with a poached egg and avocado salsa.

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The only off-piste dish is one of pork belly and eggs ($20), which is almost fine dining in its design. It features two slabs of the slow-cooked then pan-fried belly, sweet from caramelisation, a smear of salty parmesan-spiked corn puree, a duo of poached eggs and a fennel and apple salad that comes together in a plate worth veering off course for.

Cenzo's Cafe + Bar, pork belly with poached eggs. Source: NewsCorp

The venue also offers a trio of burgers, including a classic cheeseburger and a vegan-friendly mushroom number. The buffalo burger ($19) we’re warned comes with a house-made, Tabasco-like hot sauce and fiery chipotle aioli, which can both be served on the side for diners unsure of their chilli tolerance. However, the hot sauce is more vinegary than spicy, creating sharpness and piquancy to cut through the fattiness of the brilliantly crispy wedge of chicken thigh given the Southern fried treatment. A creamy coleslaw brings everything into balance, but be warned, this burger is deceptively satiating, so come hungry as you’ll also want to devour the side of ridiculously good chips with aioli.

Coffee is from Merlo and is one of the brand’s special organic blends, arriving smooth and sweet with underlying chocolatey notes. There are also cold-pressed juices, smoothies, iced drinks and shakes, including a fab, old-school caramel version; as well as a small alcoholic offering running from local beers on tap to spirits, cocktails and wines by popular bottle shop labels.

Foodie friends have long raved to me about the charm of Cenzo’s and I can see why. As, in the words of seemingly every 20-something girl on Instagram and TikTok describing everything from their “super cute” outfit of the day to that new $8 lamp from Kmart that provides just the right lighting to take the perfect selfie, “it’s a vibe”.

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131 Lumley St Upper Mount Gravatt QLD 4122

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