Behind the green and white walls and nature-inspired, minimal fit-out at new Brisbane cafe Dicki’s Ascot, a carefully crafted act of deception is taking place.

Unsuspecting diners peruse a menu that reads like that of any other contemporary eatery. There’s the likes of mince and beans on toast, spaghetti bolognese, a sticky duck toastie, even chicken and mushroom stroganoff. But what guests aren’t told by the smiling young staff is that these dishes are all – some may say – fraudulent.

There’s no chicken in that stroganoff, no beef in that bolognese and the duck has never quacked. Dicki’s is a vegan cafe and the “meat” morsels are all as fake as the Kardashian clan. It seems slightly strange that none of the service team mentions the fact that the venue is plant-based – or have any clue what these mock meats are really made of – but perhaps that’s the best way to convert hardcore carnivores to veganism – trickery.

I mean, it is how I convince my animal protein-loving partner to join me for breakfast, by simply telling him he can eat a burger for brekky. He just doesn’t need to know the so-called chicken inside bears no resemblance to actual poultry. Instead the katsu burger ($20.50) features a pattie made from soy protein “and some other stuff mixed in”, according to our waitress after checking with the kitchen. It is crumbed and fried until crisp and could quite possibly pass for a pub parmie. Topped with an abundance of slaw, a slice of vegan cheese and lashings of soy-based mayonnaise that tastes as good as a real egg version in between a soft brioche bun, this impostor could easily fool the uninitiated.

Less convincing, however, is the green “eggs” on Turkish bread ($18.50). Made from tofu stirred through with pesto, baby spinach and ribbons of zucchini, there’s certainly no mistaking this for chicken layings. But it could be quite a decent dish with more generous seasoning.

What the cafe does master is its coffee. Using its own signature blend of beans that is also available for sale, plus alternative milks, an oat flat white ($4.50) comes smooth and creamy and even better than a traditional dairy version – according to my partner. Also free from cow’s milk are the smoothies, made under the advice of nutritionists and personal trainers, they contain pea protein and are nutritionally balanced, with a peanut butter and banana version using coconut milk ($12.50) creamy and thick from dairy-free vanilla ice cream.

There are cold-pressed juices too for something lighter; while those looking for an extra treat can select from myriad cakes and sweets in a cabinet at the front, all made in-house for the cafe and its sister venue of the same name in nearby New Farm. Choose from the likes of dairy and egg-free sweet and savoury croissants, plus doughnuts, protein balls, brownies and both small and large cakes, with the large versions apparently hugely popular for birthdays.

While Dicki’s might attract diners under arguably false pretences, it’s a clever ploy that seems to be paying off, with the subterfuge even convincing meat-loving men and women that veganism isn’t so bad after all.

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