I’m normally not a fan of Mars Bar cheesecakes that riff on the best-selling chocolate bar, finding them richer than billionaire reality star Kylie Jenner and almost as difficult to stomach. But not the version at Whisk & Ladle in Milton, in Brisbane’s inner west. 

Sitting pretty in a counter cabinet among other house-made sweets such as muesli slice, baklava, and banana, blueberry and coconut bread, this version of the ubiquitous dessert strikes just the right balance of sweet and tart, with extra tang given to the cream cheese to ensure it is a worthy opponent capable of standing up to the saccharine force of milk chocolate and caramel.

The result is a juxtaposition that creates relief and reprieve rather than overwhelming the palate, and it is so good, in fact, that I can’t stop thinking about it a week later.

It’s also just what is called for when sitting down to one of the cafe’s Colombian estate blend coffees from local West End roasters Stel that are delivered smoother than a Boyz II Men a cappella set.

The brew is in complete contrast to the eatery’s mango smoothie that is so tart it could make even the most Botoxed face scrunch. For something sweeter though there are the likes of caramel and chocolate frappes, classic milkshakes, house-made iced teas and soft drinks.

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As for the menu, this family-run operation serves a mostly traditional-themed, all-day breakfast with favourites such as savoury mince, omelets and mushrooms on toast; while the lunch offering speaks to their Greek heritage with dishes including moussaka, a haloumi burger and “the big Greek” featuring roasted lamb, lemon potatoes, grilled haloumi, Greek salad, pita bread and tzatziki for just $24.50.

In keeping with the Greek theme, we order the yiros ($16.90), which comes with the choice of pulled pork, grilled chicken, haloumi or, our pick, the slow-cooked lamb. The meat is juicy, charry and bursting with everything that is great about Greek lamb, and is topped with golden, crunchy steak fries, salad and a very good tzatziki on a supple pita.

It’s so big though, it’s almost impossible to eat as a traditional wrap, making this more of a knife and fork affair. Less memorable is the potato rosti stack with a just-set poached egg, avocado and tanned haloumi, plus the addition of smoked salmon ($22.90). I’m not sure just two potato cakes counts as a stack and they could be a little crispier and less oily, but are still pleasant enough.

Perhaps the steak sandwich accompanied by a mountain of golden chips which arrives at the table opposite in the minimally appointed dining room, which extends to a wrap-around deck, would have been a better option.

I guess that’s another reason to return. Well, that and that Mars Bar cheesecake.

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