Pushing Etna’s red door is like an indie movie shot in Brooklyn or Robert de Niro’s famed Tribeca Grill with exposed brick walls and crystal chandeliers to keep the lighting subdued. A marble and timber bar takes centre stage. This pocket-sized premium pizza newcomer certainly has that unmistakable New York feel in the heritage-listed Stewart & Hemmant building.

Dark Thonet-style chairs and leather banquettes match tables topped with stone plates and cloth napkins. The char-scent comes via the Moretti Forni Neapolis 6. Designed for Brisbane’s long hot summers, a fairy-light festooned courtyard out back links to big sister Rosmarino.

We choose Cantabrian Olasgasti anchovies and just-sliced salsicetta Sara discs from the trim and unfussy menu. Restaurant manager Bianca suggests adding schiacciata, aka pizza bread blessed with oregano and EVOO; the umami-bomb anchovies love it, and so do we.

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Etna’s polished drinks list runs to eighteen pages, and like everything else at Etna, it’s primo. For non-vino drinkers, there’s a short run of spritzes, beers, spirits, a few Amari, chinotto etc. Next, turn the page for irresistible Italian ‘skin contact’ beauties. A 2019 Alla Costiera ‘Trachite Bianco’ Veneto is pizza’s perfect match.

Etna’s wholemeal sourdough started six years ago with 48-hour fermentation adding the finishing touch. Toppings likewise are both rustic and modern. Mortadella with a fior di latte base has pistachio crumble and stracciatella. Mantovana is fior di latte, taleggio, sausage, rosemary, parmesan, and amaretti dust atop a pumpkin base.

We go rogue with the Anatrella. Mascarpone is kicked up a notch with Riverine buffalo blue, goat cheese, translucent sliced duck leg, parmesan and frutta mostardo. Rich but subtle. Each bite somehow a little bit of everything. An unexpected but glorious flavour mix.

We weren’t thinking of dessert until…we did. Unfortunately, dolce hasn’t made it to print, but that doesn’t mean it’s an afterthought. Fior di latte gelato with basil syrup, tomato jam and a crisp pizza dough tart messes with my head while making my tastebuds happy.

Etna juggles casual dining and elegance with bravura. Friendly, knowledgeable service combines with pizza that surprises and delights to make it a game-changer. 

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