“Hello, Cairo calling,” says our waitress as she places a cocktail in front of me. The newest addition to Windsor’s dining scene is colourful and welcoming and her joke is a twist on the old BBC “London calling” that announced the news during wartime. Rather than heralding the end of the world, this gin cocktail, with white grapefruit vermouth and za’atar, is a smooth entry to lunch and the beginning of a fantastic new experience for Melbourne diners and for us.

It’s fun, fancy dining, but things are not precocious at Henrietta’s. Babies and families are as welcome as lovers on dates. I’m completely smitten by the dimpled pressed tin panelling on the roof and walls of the bar, and captivated by the idea of seeing the terracotta tiles and primary blue accents of the decor lit up with candles or lamplight at night. 

We order the classic banquet ($68) and the first dish to be presented is the hummus which is my dish of the day. I already know I will return for it. It comes crowned with toasted cashews and a tangy, vibrant green shatta which offers a striking counterpoint to the creamy chickpea and tahini dip. 

Next is a heavenly halloumi. It has a touch of chilli and ginger and a texture so puffy it feels like it’s been whipped before being fried into perfect pillows. The dish is crowned with a generous heap of miniscule fried leeks adding crunch and infusing each bite with flavour.

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The prawn fatteh roll with pine nuts, burnt butter and yoghurt is perhaps the most disappointing dish of the banquet, even though it is fun to eat. The yoghurt is heavy on the tang, giving the roll a cheesy flavour and it’s hard to differentiate the prawn from the black salmon roe, although we can identify the fresh herbs layered throughout (chervil). Our waitress tells us that the dish includes black tahini but it, too, melds into one with the other ingredients. 

Of course, the smoky charcoal chicken is the main event here. It comes with pickled cucumber, radish and a sensational super garlicky toum that will definitely keep the vampires away. Coupled with the spicy harissa, sumac chips and a round/teepee of Lebanese bread, it’s juicy, the spices flavourful, and pickled chillies add spice for those who want it. The accompanying fattoush salad with its lovely sprinkling of pomegranate seeds, is one of the best I’ve ever had. 

We’re defeated by the white chocolate mouhalabieh (a sweet Lebanese milk pudding similar to panna cotta), in a pond of honey covered in a crunchy spray of crushed pistachios nuts, and can only eat a spoonful each of the silky dessert.

Originally a Sydney store, the 80-seat dining space on Chapel Street is the ESCA Group’s first interstate venue. Staff are super smooth, skilled and look happy to be here. I’ll be back to try the barramundi and the arak cocktails and to sample more from the wine list which has offerings from Australia and the Middle East.

For those who want it, there’s a takeaway window on Chapel Street.

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