Food in an art gallery is not only frowned upon, it is banned. On a recent visit to GOMA, I had to cloak a brand new bottle of water because of the potential risk for spillage – or worse – intentional sabotage. But at the new Mews restaurant inside hotel Crystalbrook Vincent in Brisbane’s CBD, eating around art is actually encouraged.

The freshly opened venue facing out towards Howard Smith Wharves replaces former Italian eatery Polpetta and is designed to align more to the accommodation outlet’s sustainability sensibilities, serving food that can be traced back to its origins from producers no more than a few hundred kilometres away.

It has also been designed to complement the hotel’s existing collection of more than 500 prints from acclaimed Australian artist Vincent Fantauzzo; commissioning eight Brisbane artists to create 10 stunning works to line the contemporary, industrial space’s concrete walls and pillars.

As diners walk in, they’re greeted by a striking blue and red mural from artist Sortwo, while a captivating floral piece from Ash Taylor blooms across a nearby pillar. Whether you’re sitting in the tile-backed banquettes closest to the kitchen or along the outdoor terrace, there is an artwork to capture your attention and imagination.

Related story: Sofitel Melbourne launches NGV-inspired No35 x Picasso lunch

Just as captivating is the menu. The venue is open for breakfast and dinner, with a share-style, modern Australian offering of an evening, while the mornings serve both the traditional and unexpected, moving between a classic eggs Benedict or granola and yoghurt, to black fennel-cured salmon or a duck cassoulet.

The latter ($28) is more boiled than braised, with a wateriness that soaks through the English muffin below rendering it soggy, limp and indistinguishable. More of the promised Stanthorpe green apple would help to lighten it, while the advertised peas haven’t made the plate.

Far better is the lamb cutlet ($28), though to some it could still be heard bleating, its flesh raw – having barely touched the pan. What’s cooked perfectly though is the corn hash it sits on: crunchy exterior, fluffy centre and with a viscous golden tomato sauce to swipe through.

While the menu pushes for as many of the ingredients as possible to be locally sourced to reduce air miles and be more sustainable, the coffee comes from just slightly further afield, with Sydney’s St Dreux going through the machines, delivering solid pours of espresso, with plenty of alternate milks available.

There are no smoothies or milkshakes, but rather juices from Grove Premium, plus a freshly made juice of the day – a salubrious, ginger-forward apple and orange number going down a little too easily. There are also T2 teas and, ideal for those staying upstairs in the hotel, a duet of classic breakfast cocktails.

Mews is only fresh and its willingness to go outside the traditional breakfast boundaries – particularly for a hotel – should be vigorously applauded. It’s just hoped that the finesse in the kitchen and refinement on the plate soon follows.

Related review: This classic Camp Hill eatery has an impressively contemporary menu