When most of us think about not wasting food, it’s probably about using up those seen-better-days carrots in the back of the crisper. Or not leaving anything on our dinner plate.
We mightn’t think of an earthy-spiced carrot “achaar” (a spiced Indian pickle) served with a crumbed potato and white bean croquette and a funky, sticky-tangy mushroom “ketchup” with fresh mint and fried curry leaves. This is a starter dish at Refettorio OzHarvest – based on ingredients that might otherwise have landed in the bin.
The team at the “Ref” (as it’s known) are champions in kitchen creativity. After all, that’s the brief at this attractive whitewashed terrace space, full of natural light, pale wood, distressed bricks and fabulous artworks: to turn “repurposed” ingredients into something wonderful.

So a multi-culinary main course here might be a cheesy polenta sitting under a “Korean” (think fermented black bean) mushroom bolognese, with the crack of crushed almonds, the sting of spring and pickled red onions, and a spinach-blended oil dressing. All sitting prettily on a fine ceramic plate.
We’ll get to drinks and dessert in a second.
This intriguing eatery is part of Food For Soul, an ambitious international project founded by Italian star chef Massimo Bottura (look him up, he’s quite something) and his equally inspiring wife and business partner, US born Lara Gilmore. A refettorio is a canteen, or soup kitchen, but this model focuses on beautiful surrounds and sharing all that’s special about sitting around a table for a meal. With an overarching focus on tackling food waste.
At heart, the Refettorio concept is a social enterprise for the socially disadvantaged. It now boasts 13 collaborations world-wide including Milan, Paris, Rio and recently, Harlem in New York. And Surry Hills in Sydney, in partnership with food rescue charity OzHarvest.
Related story: First Look: Massimo Bottura’s Refettorio opens in Surry Hills

While this artfully renovated Crown Street terrace is open for weekday lunch to anyone needing a meal, the Ref also holds weekly dinners and corporate events as a kind of pay-it-forward initiative.
And whether at lunch or pre-booked and paid dinner ($80 per person), not only is everything is brilliantly presented and served to your table by smiling volunteers, it also tastes really, really good.
Menus vary, naturally, and everything is vegetarian. At an evening meal, drinks include non-alcohol beer or a “shrub” – a lightly fermented drink of fruits, herbs and more. We finish two carafes-ful of a tangelo and ginger brew, it’s so good.

For dessert, carrot and ginger cake (yep, more carrot) sits under mascarpone ice-cream, sweet shards of earl grey meringue, pepita and brown butter toasted crumbs, and an edible violet for maximum prettiness. It’s a fine meal with feel-good a-plenty.
A poster message reminds us that worldwide, one third of all food is wasted, despite 70% of it being perfectly edible. And that adding this much to global garbage generates 10% of all greenhouse emissions. An alarming thought.
Any other reasons why you wouldn’t want to book a Ref dinner very soon? Do it. And do good. And maybe get some inspo for those leftover carrots while you’re at it.
Related review: Lennox Hastie brings a taste of San Sebastian to Surry Hills at Gildas
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