It’s a question that’s become as predictable as “still or sparkling?”. “Are there any dietaries?” is an unavoidable part of waiter-diner introductions, thanks to about 12 per cent of Australians avoiding gluten and countless more dodging dairy, meat or the dietary shibboleth du jour. It means chefs have become accustomed to modifying dishes on the run, whether they like it or not (not, actually – the chef who enjoys such added stress levels is yet to be found). 

It makes sense, therefore, that some venues are streamlining the process, cutting out the “any dietaries?” question and serving up a menu that can accommodate more diners without any extra kitchen fuss.

Enter Rufio, a flash Latin American newbie from the crew behind Elwood’s Repeat Offender, where everything is gluten free and a good sub-section is vegan-friendly.

Dietaries aren’t exactly sexy, but this first floor St Kilda real estate, formerly home to the Vietnamese Uncle, certainly is. Head up the stairs and you’ll find a long, narrow dining room, elegantly minimalist and lit by slinky futuristic pendants, spilling on to a palm-fringed rooftop deck. 

It’s the realm of midriff tops and Instagrammers, with a few fist-pumping bros hanging out at the bar. It ought to come as no surprise that every second table is getting on the margaritas, which swing from the slushie machine churning on the bar to five other variations, including a Tommy’s and an Italian version with Aperol and blood orange, all served, as nature intended, with a bristling rim of chilli salt. 

The Latin American focus pings strongly on the dish-recognition radar. There are croquetas, empanadas and tostadas, the latter rocking an excellent gluten-free carb game via crisply addictive corn discs topped with the likes of poached lobster meat balanced nicely with chilli, sweet tomatoes and lime juice. Each one is $18 you’d happily spend (hell, order two, looming recession be damned). 

Steak tartare is one of those Esperanto dishes that changes its stripes easily. Here it’s luxed up with a duck egg hollandaise and a guajillo dressing that’s more savoury than spicy, with little corn chip plectrums for scooping duties. A good ‘un.

From the fiery wood grill manned by head chef Simon Winson, a single, charry octopus tentacle gets big points for visual drama but its accompanying tapenade-topped confit tomato and a rich wodge of potato terrine have a cheffiness that sits awkwardly with the rustic protein. 

But just like the lobster tostadas, I’d head back for the passionfruit coconut pannacotta, a bed of giddily delicious gloop anchoring raspberry sorbet and a couple of rice-based donuts vibing off the Argentinian arroz con leche (rice pudding) and sprinkled with pistachio sugar for extra fun. It may be of interest that the dish is entirely dairy free.

So do you have to be dietarily concerned to enjoy Rufio? With caveats, no. It certainly makes life easier for the gluten-free brigade, not to mention the kitchen brigade. But whether your motivating force is GF or glamour, a margarita or a tostada, it aims to please – no questions asked. 

Related review: Smith & Daughters delivers meat-free dining for the masses