If you’re at the St George Sailing Club and hear applause it could be that table of diners nearby are overjoyed by the arrival of their seafood platter. But it’s more likely to be the guy down on one knee has just pulled off his perfectly planned marriage proposal. Engagement theatrics aside, there’s romance to be found at this new over-the-water club, from its flower-filled vases, to its soaring raked ceilings and nautical vibes, recently revealed after a $15m glow-up.

As well as being a functioning sailing club, the venue is all things to all people: it seats up to 550 people, has a sports bar, main bar, waterfront bistro, outdoor terrace and functions room. Expect to see a few salty old sea dogs looking up at the Honours Board as you make your way through the light-filled lobby to the breezy bistro.

The St George Sailing Club, or “Sailo” as it’s affectionately known to Sans Souci locals, has been serving those who want to test their sailing skills for almost 125 years. The white-on-white Jon Jacka-designed space mirrors the form and function of its sister venue, the Manly 16ft Skiff Club, which has also endeared itself to Sydneysiders. We count ourselves lucky to score a table under a beach umbrella on the glassed-in terrace as the club is fully booked most weekends.

The uniform is smart casual, and it’s a mix of young, tanned members, canoodling couples, and old-money clans dressed to the nines. The club is located on a well-used section of shared pathway that leads across the Captain Cook Bridge to the Sutherland Shire, so expect to see a few blow-ins stopping for late-arvo spritzers.

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Given it’s a Sunday and the club is in full swing, it’s impressive that our food is delivered within 20 minutes to our table, which has views over the Georges River that we drink in while contemplating a concise list of mostly Australian wines, craft beers and cocktails. It’s a civilised spot to enjoy simple bistro fare designed by executive chef Justin Wong (the former head chef at Manly 16ft Skiff Club).

Fun times beckon over curls of salt and pepper calamari and a glass of pinot grigio, followed by a chicken parmigiana that is buried under molten cheese, the richness of which is cut by a tangy splash of tomato. A substantial beef burger is served on a squishy milk bun and kicks into gear thanks to the tangy pickles and an ice-cold schooey of Stone & Wood that comes along for the ride.

The Superfood Poke Bowl was an outrageously filling vegan-pleaser, with crunchy slaw, cubes of tofu, edamame, wakame and avocado, but the seared tuna salad was a little bit too overdressed to enjoy.

Overall, this is a slick space, made even better with its iconic outlook, thoroughly decent club grub and waiters who radiate confidence. While walk-ins are acceptable for the outdoor tables and sports bar, the main dining room is prime real estate so, come summer, you should book ahead to be part of the fun. You might even want to sign up for sailing lessons.

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