Long known for its politics, galleries and Questacon, Canberra’s bid to become Australia’s most exciting food city has been buoyed by the recent arrival of some big talent.
Having already embedded James Vile (Biota) as Culinary Director last year, the Harvac restaurant group has welcomed Head Chef Brendan Hill (Aria), and together they’ve lifted the cloche on the ACT’s latest destination: Wilma BBQ.
Offering reinvigorated pan-Asian favourites on downtown Canberra’s buzziest corner, the lofty multi-storey venue that, until recently, housed island-themed bar Kokomo’s has been given a dark coat of paint and had its infamous booths relined with leather and crushed velvet.
While there’s little immediately reminiscent of Biota or Aria in Wilma’s dramatically dim fit-out and pulsing EDM soundtrack, there’s a wealth of culinary bravado on display across the punchy menu. Aus-ifying Chinese and South-East Asian classics may be worn ground, but Viles and Hill reimagine respectfully without losing the spirit of the dishes they’re riffing off.
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Airy ‘prawn toast’ donuts make a big first impression, dunked in a luminescent sweet and sour sauce spiked with native Davidson plum, as does the chilli-kicked Laos-style prawn, pork and chicken sausage resting on a disk of white bread. They’re strong accompaniments to a glass of local white from the accessible wine list – where only one glass comes in over $15 – or to one of the fruity cocktails courtesy of The Pearl; the bar that shares the venue.
The kitchen’s titular BBQ brings appealing char to the smoked, though somewhat dry, char siu pork, while the highlight of the meal comes not from the grill, but courtesy of the tendrils of crispy egg noodles submerged in a pool of fiery chilli oil, topped with generous chunks of tempura-fried Balmain bugs.
The voyage through Asia ends with a Hong Kong-inspired egg tart, browned like its Portuguese brethren and scattered with caramelised white chocolate pearls. It’s a fittingly inventive-yet-familiar conclusion to a meal littered with delightful surprises.
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