Soup season has arrived and this year, Sydneysiders will have more options than the usual laksa, pho and ramen to keep them warm. Hanasuki has splashed onto the Chatswood dining scene as one of the only shabu shabu specialists in the city.

Shabu shabu, which is named after the swish-swish sound of the meat and vegetables in water, is a Japanese-style of hot pot.

If you’ve had the Chinese variety before, you’ll know how it all works. Groups gather around a steaming pot of broth. Beers are sipped. Meats are dipped. Everyone leaves full and happy.

Most hot pot experiences are casual affairs, but the new Hanasuki in Chatswood is surprisingly glam.

Almost every surface is clad in oak timber panelling and there’s a glittering golden installation above the central bar. The sleek interiors haven’t stopped clientele from turning up in jeans and sweatshirts – this is comfort food after all.

There’s only one order here – shabu shabu, all you need to decide is what kind of meat you’re having. There’s a seafood selection (prawns, oyster, scallop), kurobuta pork belly and three types of Japanese wagyu. The most premium is the A5 Kagoshima wagyu sirloin, which is so marvellously marbled it also melts away in the broth. We opt for the chef’s favourite, the A5 Kagoshima wagyu chuck roll, which is said to have a beefier flavour and a little bit more chew.

The meat is sliced into paper-thin strips to allow for quick and even cooking. Our waiter demonstrates, holding it with the tongs and then swishing it this way and that through the seasoned dashi broth. It only takes three swipes for the meat to change colour from red to pink, at which point he lifts it out and drapes it on our plate. The meat can then be dipped into a sesame paste or ponzu sauce, both of which can be supercharged with more wasabi, yuzu kosho, chilli or grated radish as needed.

Dare I say it, even vegetables are fun to eat this way. Cabbage cooks instantly, while the shiitake mushrooms can be left to bob for around 20 minutes or more. Hot tip: keep an eye on your items or they may be “accidentally” eaten by another member of your party. With each dip, the broth becomes thicker and richer, increasing in flavour and complexity with every new ingredient added.

It’s usually at bursting point when the waiter comes over again and adds a cup of rice and an egg to the broth, turning the delicious dregs into a Japanese-style congee (zousui). It’s the best part of the meal, if only you had room to fit it in.

Now’s not the time to be thinking about consuming more liquids, but there is an impressive selection of beers to choose from (we loved the Japanese citrus-spiked Yuzu Koji Rice Lager) and some very creative chu-hi cocktails.

Hanasuki delivers simple, warming comfort food. It’s a satisfying meal, but the real appeal is the simple act of sitting around a table with friends and family, drinking beers, sharing food and going swish-swish.

Related review: Josh Niland’s newest restaurant is an absolute catch for the North Shore