Darwin is renowned for its Technicolor sunsets, a nightly recital that beguiles onlookers. But it was dawn, as opposed to dusk, that captivated me on a recent visit to the Northern Territory capital. Specifically, the dawn of the city’s fledgling dining scene. This former frontier outpost has lately shrugged off its provincialism with a cluster of urbane eateries and bars.

Darwin’s dry season, which runs May to October, is the perfect time to visit this tropical, topical city.

Tapas time

Fancy some berber-spiced kangaroo with tomato jam? I never did until I encountered the piquant dish at Moorish Cafe (37 Knuckey St). The North African spice blend, which conjures the souks of Marrakesh, has forever altered my perception of eating ’roo. As its name suggests, Moorish draws inspiration from Spain, Morocco and the Mediterranean for its tantalising tapas. Remarkably, Darwinians have been feasting on their appetising small plates – harissa with pita bread, grilled chorizo and marinated anchovies among them – for over a decade. Owners Gertrude Knight and Marc Wagnon are trailblazers who still work the room with vim and good humour every night of the week.

On deck

Dining on the boardwalk at Cullen Bay, with its nautical scene of bobbing boats and the sinking sun, is an unmitigated pleasure. The bliss comes with a Mediterranean accent at Yots Greek Taverna (4/54 Marina Blvd, Larrakeyah), and faithful renditions of cheese saganaki, fried whitebait and grilled octopus. My favourite dish was a special of octopus rissoles with chilli, garlic, ginger, lemon rind, oregano and a dusting of panko. They were the type of rustic delicacy you might discover while island-hopping around Greece. Sociable owner Evan Papandonakis offers wine pairings and endearing commentary.

Cocktail den

If you were scouting to film a reality TV show in the Top End, you might consider The Trader Bar (3 Harriet Place) as an engaging location. The telegenic staff is garbed in all white, the resident DJ is spinning ambient house, and the cocktail lounge has a jet-set vibe one associates with cities like Miami or LA more so than far-flung Australia. Perched at the bar, you can watch the skilled barkeeps prepare drinks including espresso martinis and Corpse Revivers. Or take a seat in the outdoor garden on a balmy evening, which is every night. On weekends, Trader Bar serves brunch and coffee by day.

Ski run  

It’s not hard to see why punters have been flocking to the Darwin Ski Club (20 Conacher St, Fannie Bay) for decades. It’s a tranquil venue with expansive lawns, waterfront vistas on Vesteys Beach and a welcoming spirit. Plus, it’s directly opposite the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, one of the city’s leading cultural centres. Skiing does occur here, as well as wakeboarding and canoeing, but the most popular water sport is drinking. The beer-stocked bar is open from midday, and the restaurant serves alcohol-friendly fare such as salt and pepper squid. Sunsets are especially arresting here, but avoid cooling off in the bay – box jellyfish are partial to this pretty spot, too.

Darwin digs

Water, water, everywhere, but not a drop to sink in. From stingers to crocs, scary critters reside in Top End beaches, so a hotel with an impressive pool is vital. The best suites at Sky City Darwin (Mindil Beach, Gilruth Avenue) are the Superior Lagoon Rooms situated on the ground floor. They offer breezy timber furnishings, quick access to a man-made beach, and swim-off balconies into the jade-hued pool. Tropical foliage, spacious rooms and Cove steakhouse outside your door ensure that your stay is a sweet one.

For more highlights from George Epaminondas’ trip to Darwin, pick up the February 2018 issue of delicious. – on sale now.