Mention Christmas and thoughts for many of us will turn to the roast turkey, roast pork or a glazed ham. But what of the pescatarians or vegetarians out there? How can we make these holidays special for them too? And what about the poor vegans who don’t even have the four dairy Cs of the Christmas Canon – the cheeseboard, cheesecake, custard or cream-laden pav – to look forward to? How can we turn Bleak House into Great Expectations for them when it comes to lunch or dinner on the big day?

And what about the challenge of a carnivorous household welcoming a vegan or vegetarian for the first time – how can we make them feel valued, welcomed and seen as guests?

Acceptance

The first step with welcoming anyone with any dietary requirements is acceptance. You’ll always happily make the baked tomato and onion savoury for Aunt Sarah, or Brussels sprouts with bacon-wrapped chipolatas for every member of the extended family, as this what says Christmas to them… so why not treat the vegan or vego with the same respect? 

Related recipes: 64 vegan recipes for Christmas that go beyond the nut loaf

Quality

Whatever you put on the table to honour your vego guests should also be tasty enough for the rest of the table to want to dig into, albeit slightly more sparingly. Don’t think of dividing the vegans and the carnivores into shepherds and kings – even if that is part of the nativity story. 

Make your non-carnivore dish a statement! Carnivores should be jealous too! And if you are a vego, vegan or pescatarian host, this rule still applies with what you cook for the whole group. Although carnivores have been known to be a trifle less accepting, so you might suggest hosting Boxing Day or New Year’s Eve dinner instead of the classic Christmas carnivorous feast.

Complementary

Keep the flavours of your pescatarian, vegan or vego hero dish complementary with the rest of the meal. If your flavour theme is Middle Eastern or European don’t knock up a Thai-inspired dish just for them. The food, like your guests, should all feel like part of the whole.

Delegate

While I think as the host you need to offer a vegan centrepiece to rival the roast meat, don’t feel afraid asking them to bring their own vegan-friendly add-ons, like brandy custard or mustard, if they require them. When I wrote my vego/vegan cookbook More, I was amazed at how Dijon mustard was often not vegan-friendly. (Ed’s note: Dijon contains white wine, which often contains non-vegetarian fining agents.) Individual vegan puds are available too – it would be good to get your guest(s) one of those to show generosity if you are having a classic plum pudding.

For pescatarians

A low-temperature-roasted side of ocean trout with all the Christmas trimmings or a side of roast kingfish with the flavours of green curry and loaded with fresh herbs are two statement recipes that I’d heartily recommend. 

For vegetarians

The vegetable world is full of big statement produce. It’s just a matter of picking the right flavourings to lift them to sigma level status. A whole pumpkin, smoked and candied with maple syrup, is going to sing with a tamarind dressing and crème fraiche. A whole cauliflower microwaved and then flash-roasted at highest heat while the turkey or roast pork rests – this can be rubbed first with harissa and cumin to be served with dates, yoghurt and hummus, but would also fit a classic Northern-Euro Christmas flavouring when roasted with a mix of torn mozzarella, crème fraiche and other favourite cheeses pushed between the florets.

Related story: Matt Preston has cracked the recipe for an amazing vegan caesar salad

For vegans

These vego dishes will also work with substitute vegan ingredients, but you could also go another way for the vegans – say, pairing that whole roasted smoked maple pumpkin with a fresh coriander chutney, creamy soaked-cashew dressing and chilli pecan brittle.

And while the classic nut roast might be the default setting for some old-school vegans I’d look more favourably on a stuffed and roasted whole butternut which can be carved at the table. 

Or you could just make this vegan recipe, which includes some of my favourite vegan party tricks that even the most rusted-on meat and dairy lovers have embraced. It starts with a very simple idea: what if we took the best bit of a traditional Christmas lunch – the impossibly crunchy golden roasties – and gave them the vegan nachos treatment?

Whatever your choice, and whichever way your dietary requirements swing,  thanks for being here this year. And remember: Christmas should first and foremost be about the people, and not the food and the presents. (It might be best not to remind me of this at 11.55am on Christmas Day when I am knee-deep in gravy and bubbling pots. You might not get the Christmas cheer you expect!)