Zero alcohol wine. Isn’t it just fancy cordial? This is one of the catchcries from drinkers, both curious and condescending, about one of the fastest‑growing drinks categories in the world.

Drinkers concerned about consumption – or choosing abstinence – have entered an epoch never seen before, where zero‑alcohol wines come in a myriad of personalities and styles.

The two major processes used to take alcohol out of wine are vacuum distillation and reverse osmosis. If these sound like things from a kooky science lab, in some respects that’s true. Some winemakers are instead ‘building’ non‑alc wine on a base of verjuice (young wine that hasn’t gone through alcoholic fermentation), and adding character with other juices and botanical infusions, rather than the real deal with alcohol removed.

We’re seeing more complexity and wines closer to their intended styles being released at a rate of knots; and we’re all benefiting from the betterment of our health and wellbeing.

Kolonne Null Riesling 2023 (Germany, $30)

The best producer of non-alcoholic wines on the planet, so far! This tastes and feels almost identical to great German riesling. Citrussy, minerally, fresh, with good concentration and vitality.

Senorio De La Tautila Tempranillo (Spain, $22)

The best NA red wine I have seen on the market. It has weight; it has deep, rich, forest berry fruit character and an array of attractive, woody spices. Delicious with a chill.

Barossa Wine Cartel No, No. Sparkling 2023 (Barossa Valley, $30)

This is a wine built around verjuice, with chamomile and Murray River salt blended in for personality. Vibrant, refreshing, tangy and with vivid bubbles. Top flight.

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