One of the finest sommeliers I know is a man by the name of Harshal Shah. His background is Indian, though he has worked widely around the world, with a particular focus on high-end dining and prestigious wines. A consummate gentleman, stoically traditional, perennially well-dressed and armed with a rapier-like wit, Shah is now leading one of Ireland’s poshest wine merchants, Pembroke Wines.

But during his extended time in Australia, his landmark role involved elevating the wine culture at Aki’s, a top-flight Indian restaurant in Sydney.

The extensive wine list championed the best wines of the best regions, which meant you could be drinking exceptional Burgundy one minute or sipping on grand marque Champagne the next.

This dedication is a far cry from the lackadaisical approach typical in Indian cuisine beverage pairings. Common wisdom sees neutral, refreshing beers or light, aromatic white wines the mainstay matches, even though Indian cuisine works with some of the broadest flavour and texture palates you’ll find.

I fondly recall visiting Shah at Aki’s, impromptu, to have him sit me down and school me on how an array of wines worked with the breadth of the cuisine.

That day, he opened several Margaret River cabernets, pitch-perfect mediumweight reds that brought sweetness to mild curries. He showed me textural whites matured in oak, chardonnay included, that had an opulence that settled in gloriously with creamier curries. The dishes with more heat were perfectly balanced by two poles of wine: firstly, aromatic and fruity gewürztraminer was a treat, but fleshy, full-flavoured reds were a revelation.

Unusually, things like Barossa shiraz or blends with grenache were particularly friendly with dishes that went from warm through to eye-wateringly hot. Shah’s vision may be a little harder and faster than most, but kudos for his work elevating the Indian dining experience.