Australia may be known for its big, bold shiraz, but the red wine staple has just been usurped by a surprising contender.

This year’s vintage revealed that chardonnay has overtaken shiraz for 2024, with an increase of 31 percent in chardonnay yield. At 333,000 tonnes, chardonnay grapes far exceeded the 298,000 tonnes of shiraz crushed, while shiraz production plummeted 14 percent – its lowest level since 2007 when drought decimated crops. 

It’s only the second time in a decade that chardonnay has outperformed shiraz. In 2013 chardonnay briefly held the title over shiraz before falling behind again within just a few years. The drop in shiraz production was a nationwide phenomenon, with wine experts suggesting that growers slowed their harvesting after nearly four years of Chinese tariffs.

The Chinese market was by far the largest consumer of Australian reds, specifically shiraz, however, tensions between China and Australia left us with an onshore glut of red wine.

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Environmental factors slightly impacted red grape production but more importantly, a change in drinkers’ habits influenced farmers’ decisions to ease back on the growth of heavier grape varietals. Younger wine drinkers are opting for lighter wines, whether they be delicate reds, rosé, or white wines. 

For the first time since 2014, white wine production accounted for 51 percent of the 2024 vintage, up 19 percent year on year.

The upward trend of chardonnay consumption also coincides with a public image overhaul. For decades in Australia, chardonnay was made as buttery and oaky as possible (at least, it seemed that way) giving it a bit of a daggy reputation. That older style of chardonnay also strips just about any nuance away from what is a vibrant and versatile grape.

Increasingly, winemakers are curating more lively, mineral-driven, young chardonnay wines that spend a lot less time in new oak barrels – and consumers are living for it.

What is chardonnay?

Chardonnay, a green-skinned grape, originates in eastern France and is now grown all over the world. It is generally considered a dry white wine, and is traditionally aged in oak barrels to impart a nutty, buttery flavour.

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