For so very long, rosé-style wines weren’t taken seriously. They were the thing you’d secrete in a dark cup. The wine that you’d eye off in the Esky but leave for others to drink and risk mockery. All this is being brushed away. Australian rosé wine producers have found their mojo and, increasingly, the category is bursting with high-quality, great-value wines. Rosé is produced (more-or-less) in two ways. Firstly, there is the method called ‘saignee’, which roughly translates to ‘bleeding’. Red wine juice skimmed off during the processing of red grapes is fermented and turned into rosé. The second, potentially superior, method is to take red grapes, crush them, and leave the skins and clear juice to macerate. This method typically uses grapes grown specifically for rosé. Whatever the process, the important thing is getting great grapes to produce great rosé. The upswing in quality in Australia is from this dedicated vision – canny winemakers realising that fine, elegant, refreshing styles are a winner in our climate. Rosés match our love of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine. They’re an ideal and versatile drink for charred or barbecued meats, and go well with salads, seafood and other raw treats. Indeed, a charcuterie plate, some cheese, a homemade hummus and guacamole? It’s all good with rosé. They do well on our beaches and by our pools. They’re a match made in heaven for brunches and lunches. They’re fun and frivolous when the occasion calls for it, but there are examples that would equally match any fine wine, fancy occasion. Indeed, rosé, produced from myriad grape varieties in a wealth of styles, is one of the greatest assets of the Australian wine world. From tannin-dry, savoury styles that look more like light reds, right through to neon-pink, fruity, simple drinks that will beat the hell out of a parched palate and work wonders for social lubrication. It’s time to rethink the pink.

Stacks of character married to tonnes of drinkability make this dangerously neckable. The perfume is spicy, imbued with redcurrants and earthiness. The palate is lean, tight, squeaky and fresh. Perfect alongside numbing chilli dishes.

A great thing about rosés is that some come with bubbles. Deviation Road is one of Australia’s finest sparkling wine producers, here blending pinot noir and chardonnay for a strawberry-kissed fizz of vitality and fun drinking.

The Italian grape variety rondinella, rarely seen in Australia, is used here to create a bolshie rosé of jubey fruit, bustling spice and a fine, dry finish. Slosh it in a chilled decanter and drink from tumblers with a plate of fine salumi.

From a pint-sized husbandand- wife producer, this rosé is right at the apex of what it can be. Delicate, bright in red fruits and with a gentle herb and spice character. Etched with fine tannins, this is very adult stuff.

Winemaker Andrew Hoadley has created a brilliant wine in the ‘pet nat’ style (naturally sparkling wine that ferments in the bottle). Made from syrah and riesling grapes, it’s gently sweet and crunchy textured. And simply yum.

The Deep Woods Estate trophy cabinet is groaning. They recently took out The Jimmy Watson, and have also won awards for this cheeky, blushing drop. Mildly sweet and easy to drink. Go on.