WHAT IS IT: Around the time that steak and chips became steak frites, we saw mushroom sauce silently shuffled off the menu. Peppercorn has also gone and jus just disappeared. (Don’t get us started on steak Diane). In their place, we’ve seen a cascade of béarnaise, a satin-soft sauce made from a butter and yolk emulsion lifted with aromatic herbs.

The beauty of béarnaise is that you can use it anywhere. You can smother it on meat and seafood. Dip chips in it. Pour it over roasted veg. You can even have it with your eggs.

WHY: An offspring of one of the classic mother sauces – hollandaise – this vibrant version adds shallots for sweetness, vinegar for tartness and tarragon for fragrance and punch. It’s luscious, yet tangy enough to take on any tenderloin and win. It elevates any regular rump into a fancy French bistro-style meal.

TRY IT: ESTABLISHMENT 203, BRISBANE
Hit the sauce at Ben O’Donoghue’s Italian steakhouse Establishment 203. The menu rounds up the best wagyu and Angus steaks, with 11 cuts to choose from. The star of the sauce menu is the béarnaise, which has a light, silky texture perfect for drizzling.

ANTARA 128, MELBOURNE
Chef Allan Doert-Eccles’ take on the bloomin’ onion from steak chain Outback Steakhouse is a besan-dusted banana shallot, fried into a flower. Swipe a strip through a béarnaise dusted in tarragon.

CHEZ BLUE, SYDNEY
The Sackville’s steak night has had an upgrade. The Rozelle hotel is now home to a bistro serving playful takes on French classics. A slab of prime O’Connor sirloin is sliced and served with a jug of béarnaise. Good gravy, it’s delicious!

SUBI CONTINENTAL, PERTH
Skip the steak frites and you will roux the day. This tavern is famed for simple yet classic fare, including steak frites with potato straws and bitter leaves, and béarnaise so thick you can spread it like butter.

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