WHAT IS IT: Skip the shops and enjoy your favourite salty treat at an upscale restaurant or wine bar. Just don’t expect cheese and onion. Chefs are importing upper-class crisps from France, Spain, Italy and beyond to create a posh chip-eating experience that looks nothing like what you do at home. Naturally, there’s dip – perhaps a whipped cod roe or fancy French onion – and sometimes cured meats, tinned fish or even caviar on the side.

BUT WHY: Thinly sliced, ruffled or kettle-cooked, potato crisps add texture to a dish, helping to create that perfect counterbalance of cream and crunch. They’re also an easy appetiser. For venues with small kitchens, this tasty starter comes straight out of the bag.

TRY IT: GILDA’S, SYDNEY
Head to Gildas in Surry Hills, Sydney, for the Golden Hour special (Wed-Thur, 5:30pm-6:30pm) – slivers of paleta Iberico jamon with housemade potato crisps for just $12. There’s no fancy seasoning here, just plain, salted chippies made from heirloom Peruvian gold potatoes, which are brined, sliced and fried into golden, crispy discs.

JACKSONS ON GEORGE, SYDNEY
Here, a handful of crisps is served with tinned conservas, such as mussels escabeche. Place your pickled mollusc on a potato platform for a Spanish-style salt and vinegar hit.

CLEMENTINE, MELBOURNE
Crisps and coffee mark a unique way to start the day. Freshly whipped coffee foam combines with punchy potato to create a combo that’s both delicious and challenging. Don’t ask. Just order.

HOO HA BAR, BRISBANE
This is not your ordinary fish and chips. Here, the classic combo is recreated with smoked mussels and salted potato crisps, topped with guindilla peppers and fermented hot sauce for extra kick.

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