The Sutherland Shire – dubbed “God’s own country” by locals – has recently been blessed with a number of high-profile restaurant openings.

In the past six months, Sydney’s southernmost suburbs have gained Flour bakery-cafe in Caringbah, beachfront restaurant and bar Bobby’s in Cronulla, and now Fior, an Italian eatery in Gymea by top chef Tristan Rosier and his partner Rebecca Fanning.

The hospo duo also own degustation diner Arthur and its sister restaurant Jane in Surry Hills.

Rosier grew up in The Shire and has recently returned to the region. “A few years back we moved out of Surry Hills, and further towards the South and we spend so much time in the area that we always loved the idea of opening something which we thought the locals would love.”

The idea was to bring a CBD-style venue to The Shire, he says. “We hear so much of our friends and family travelling into the city or asking the question ‘why not down here’.”

Rosier and Fanning have always chosen unique heritage buildings for their restaurants, and they’ve found a beauty for Fior. The venue has slotted into the former Caruso’s pizza shop, a corner red-brick clock tower building in the centre of town.

The space has been transformed into a slick Euro-inspired dining room by Luchetti Krelle, the award-winning design studio behind Jane, Rafi, Bathers’ Pavilion and more.

Walnut timber tables, dome lighting and comb-textured walls work together to create a contemporary bistro-style space that is both elegant and warm. “We wanted a space with great vibes, and beautiful interiors that our guests felt like they could spend hours in.”

A sun-drenched wraparound balcony is the perfect place to sip the Fior spritz, an Aperol-inspired sundowner spiked with strawberry and guava.

Inside, an open kitchen lets you watch pasta being prepared in an imported Italian extruder. Rosier and head chef Will Lawson have worked together on the menu, which revolves around casual Italian plates designed for sharing with an impressive selection of antipasto to choose from.

Saison pork & pepperberry salami and LP’s mortadella are sliced to order and served alongside Vannella burrata, Toolunka Creek olives, and doorstops of fluffy naturally fermented focaccia from Thoroughbred Bakery. “We value Australian produce over Italian in every way except when you can’t get the quality here. Very rarely do we see that Australia doesn’t give us produce that is on a world stage,” Rosier says.

The housemade pasta is available in half or full serves, with the mafalde corte with cavolo nero pesto and stracciatella a highlight: “It’s our seasonal take on pesto pasta, a vibrant green dish that adds so much colour to the table.”

For groups, there’s also an 800g ribeye steak that can easily be shared. “It’s a bestseller for sure. We cook it over the charcoal BBQ, and it’s served with lardo modenese – a ‘lard pesto’ made from whipped herbs and fat.”

The dessert menu includes housemade tiramisu and panna cotta, but you’ll want to hold out for the roaming gelato trolley stocked with chocolate, pistachio, rhubarb and melon gelato. “The selection is always changing, depending on what’s in season.”

They’re also running The Shire’s best happy hour with $2 rock oysters and a $6 aperitif from 5-6pm every day of the week. There’s really no need to come into the city after all.

Fior
Shop 2, 752-756 Kingsway, Gymea
Mon – Thu 4pm-10pm, Fri & Sat 11.30am-11.30pm, Sun 11.30am-10pm.
fiorrestaurant.com.au
@fior.restaurant