It’s fair to say that Michael Mu Sung did his market research when it came to flipping his Sydney cafe into a deli. The restaurateur lives right around the corner from the new concept deli, Ken’s Continental, which borders both Rushcutters Bay and Potts Point. And he has this leafy section of the suburb sewn up: Mu Sung owns the rustic eatery Farmhouse Kings Cross next door to Ken’s and the 20-seater Bones Ramen diagonally opposite. Cafes are a dime a dozen in Potts Point, Kings Cross and Rushcutters Bay. 

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After gathering valuable intel from his devoted customers, Mu Sung (ex-Est.) reimagined Jeremy & Sons into a deli with a focus on specialty meats. New signage, a well-stocked deli counter and shelving signal there’s been a change at the 26-seater space. What remains are the 13 tables on the pavement that are ever popular with locals who converge to order coffee, talk politics and catch up on neighbourhood goss. 

It’s a chilly winter’s morning and there are heaters and blankets available while we sit and observe the passing hip parade. “Oh hey, Annie,” says one of the friendly baristas to a customer who stops off to buy a coffee while walking her dog. There’s a woman wandering past with a yoga mat. And another dude with a dog stopping in for fresh-baked croissants and coffee. Everyone seems to know each other. 

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There’s no menu, just a chalkboard divided into three sections: breakfast, breakfast muffins, sandwiches, salads and plates. While Jeremy & Sons was known for its sandwiches and soups, Ken’s Continental is more about specialty meats and pastries and giving off cool Euro deli vibes. But it’s not all about the pickles and pastrami either. 

Guru Projects was behind the original design of the Art Deco-style cafe, and Mu Sung has used his smarts to keep most of the fit-out in order to reduce his carbon footprint and minimise waste. 

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The menu is really the only thing that’s had a major overhaul. Chef Jacob Riwaka (ex-Rising Sun Workshop and Cornersmith) oversees the menu at Ken’s Continental and Bones Ramen and it’s both concise and manageable for his small team. 

Start with the sandwiches, which you know will be unerringly excellent due to the fact Loulou’s Boulangerie is behind the bread. The deli counter also stocks a selection of cured meats such as bresaola, pancetta, terrines and pates sourced from Fino Foods and Two Providores and sausages and chorizo from Whole Beast Butchery used for the breakfast muffins. 

It feels very European to be tucking into a continental deli plate for brekkie. There’s also a pretty yellow pea pancake with herb salad, avocado, jamon and soft-boiled egg, which is the deli’s current cult classic. But it’s Riwaka’s sandwich fillings that most inspire, with combos such as chicken, dill, cucumber and apple stuffed inside doorstop-sized baguettes.

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The fact Ken’s is named after one of the regular customers tells you everything you need to know about the staff and the service. It shines. Stay and play for long enough and Ken might even make a cameo.

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