Why is the sandwich the meal of our times?

Apr 14, 2025

It's so simple, but so right

Sandwiches are a staple. From tuck-shop salad sangas to grab-n-go lunches, they’re what we reach for when we’re hungry, short on time and don’t want to think too much about it.

But the humble sandwich is no longer so humble. It’s had a serious glow-up. The soggy slices housing devon and tomato sauce that fed a generation of schoolkids are a thing of the past. These days, thick slices of artisan bread are packed with everything from sliced deli meats to melted cheese and sharp pickles to crunchy fresh vegetables.

They are all over Instagram feeds and are often a two-handed affair. Ranieri’s Deli in Five Dock has been ‘discovered’ by sandwich-obsessed foodies, but it’s been dishing up gravity-defying Italian panini since before most of them were born. More recent additions to Sydney’s sandwich scene include Good Ways Deli in Alexandria and Redfern and Small’s Deli in Potts Point.

In Melbourne, Sloppy Joe’s Deli is keeping CBD workers well fed with two locations, Mr T Deli’s super-stacked sandwiches call for a big appetite and Robin’s Deli has queues for its meatball toastie.

But what makes a really, really good sandwich?

Recipe developer Jonny Massad believes it comes down to the right balance of textures. He is the co-founder of San San, a new sandwich shop in the south-western suburb of Revesby. It’s only been open a month and its popularity has already spawned requests for franchising.

“Sandwiches are a staple item; we all grew up eating them,” he says. “Anyone can make a sandwich, but it’s what you put into it. We tried a lot of sandwich shops, but the fillings had no balance, no cohesion, no sourness or crunch.”

Massaad, along with siblings Jade and Julie, took six months to develop a menu that people would come back for, because getting customers to part with $20 for something they could potentially make at home means they have to do it a helluva lot better.

“We use ingredients such as fig jam and hot honey for sweetness, cheese for creaminess, cured meats for saltiness, pickles for sourness and even potato chips for crunch,” he says.

“Each bite has all of those elements. You need that balance; anyone can put four different types of deli meat in a sandwich and call it a day.

“The main thing is also the bread. We went through different types of bread and chose an airy focaccia/sourdough hybrid that has the firmness of sourdough and lightness of focaccia.

“Our most popular item is the OG Schnitty – chicken schnitzel, lettuce, pickles, American cheese blowtorched onto the sandwich to melt it, which the customer can see as its being made. It also has our special San San sauce, it’s like a spicy peri peri mayo. It covers all the flavour notes and the bread is warm, which makes it even better.”

Massaad believes sandwiches are having a moment because they’re easy, tasty and healthy.

“It’s an easy lunch staple that’s better than getting drive-through,” he says. “Essentially, it’s fast food done in a better way.

“People are making healthier choices and sandwiches are a fresh alternative to junk food.”

Hector’s Deli in Melbourne is a stalwart of the sandwich scene.

Owner Dom Wilton comes from a fine-dining background, with Attica and Stokehouse on his resume, but he decided to open a sandwich bar in Richmond in 2017. Hector’s Deli quickly gained a following and opened up outposts in Fitzroy and South Melbourne.

If that wasn’t enough, Hector’s Bakery has just opened in Richmond. It obviously makes it easier for Wilton to get the right bread for his creations, but also works as another outlet for the sandwiches Hector’s Deli is known for, in addition to sweet treats including morning buns, apple fritters and cheese and pepperonata croissants.

Related story: The best sandwiches in Victoria

For Wilton, moving from fine dining to a more modest eatery was a no-brainer.

“I want to be a part of the world, not just serve it on special occasions,” he says. “Sandwiches, coffee, baked things – these are daily rituals for many. I love that something so simple can bring so much joy.

“It allows for a deep level of human connection. I don’t have to explain sandwiches to anyone; we can just eat them while we talk about life.”

Wilton believes sandwiches will always play a special part in the dining life of customers because they are familiar. And they taste good.

“There’s the under-promise, over-deliver factor,” he says.

“What we’re doing differently at Hector’s is not doing anything differently, with confidence. We take sandwiches that people already know and love and perfect them. We’re brave enough to leave things alone; I think that’s what separates us from the rest.”

Related story: Sandwich recipes

When it comes to what makes up a really good sandwich, Wilton is stumped, even though he creates cult versions for a living.

“It’s impossible to say, because they’re all good for different reasons,” he says. “What I know is that if you use bad bread, you’ll never have a good sandwich.

“Bread is everything. It’s about using the right bread, not just good bread. Sometimes the perfect sandwich calls for Wonder White, other times rye sourdough. One must be aware of what their filling calls out for or risk compromising the structural integrity of the sandwich.

“I’m not a fan of untoasted, cakey sourdough bread. British people are strange.”

What he is a fan of though, is a simple pastrami with mustard on rye.

“It’s my favourite sandwich filling,” he says. “Fatty and juicy, but balanced by some hot mustard.”

“You really can’t beat it. It’s so simple, but so damn hard to perfect.”

Related story: Sandwich ideas for lunch and dinner