The secret to Phuoc Thanh Bakery’s banh mi is simple – super fresh baguettes made daily. Baguettes so legendary, they’re supplied to businesses throughout Melbourne. The ga nuong comes with chunks of barbecue chicken slathered with pate, mayonnaise, pickled radish, carrot and cucumber. Fiery discs of red chilli round out a banh mi that hums. Various locations; phuocthanh.com.au.

Follow the queue to Nhu Lan, opposite Footscray Market, to find some of Melbourne’s best banh mi, starting with fresh baked, crunchy baguettes. The barbecue pork version is delightfully sticky with just the right amount of sweetness countered by pickled carrot, cucumber and vibrant coriander sprigs. It’s open from 5am, if you’re inclined to breakfast banh mi. 116 Hopkins St, Footscray; phone: 03 9689 7296.

Aside from innovation and punchy flavours, the priority at Ca Com is working with small, sustainable producers – pigs raised by Western Plains Pork for the cold cuts; eggs from Honest Eggs Co for the silky mayonnaise. And it shows in every bite. Try the tender pork belly where red curry paste replaces pate and is all the better for it. 336 Bridge Rd, Richmond; cacom.net.au.

This relative newcomer to Melbourne’s banh mi scene had us at slow fermented bread. Brimming inside the light and crunchy artisanal roll are fillings such as hot sliced sausage, smothered in pate, with a garlic hit and a scattering of roasted peanuts. They’ll even add avocado if you ask – a taste sensation you shouldn’t knock until you try. 152 Victoria St, Richmond; phuochungbakery.com.au.

They might serve up to 1000 banh mi every day, but each is a work of art. The not-so secret ingredient – caramelised onion – adds sweetness to tender yet crispy pork. Spring onion shoots, carrot and cucumber cut through the richness of the meat and glossy onions, so much so that you may be ready to tackle a second. 1/288 Springvale Rd, Springvale; @bunbunbakery_springvale