Where the Woon family go, laksa devotees follow – for 36 years. There are no superfluous ingredients here: plump prawns or a tender chicken drumstick, a tangle of rice vermicelli and bean sprouts, and cleaved bean curd sopping up a deep broth with a demonic-looking chilli sheen. Add a dollop of jammy, aromatic sambal, and you, too, will follow the Woons anywhere. malaychinese.com.au

Despite the name, Laksa King does serve other dishes besides its trademark noodle soup. But when the main event is this strong, you should be forgiven for skipping the previews. Ruining business shirts for more than a decade now, this thrumming lunch spot is packed during weekdays with devoted fans of its exceptional broth, apparently made with 15 secret herbs and spices, which means the Colonel better watch his back. There are more than 10 laksa options to choose from; our tip is to order it ‘hot’ for a tongue-tinglingly thrilling build-up that will carry you through the afternoon. 37-39 Erskine St, Sydney; laksakingsydney.com.au

At the head of a brood of Malaysian eateries both here and in Melbourne, chef Junda Khoo does his nation’s iconic noodle soup proud. There’s textbook creamy laksa lemak base, ideal egg-to-vermicelli noodle ratio and quality ingredients such as jumbo prawns and silky-soft, tender Hainan chicken. At the Town Hall outpost, Khoo’s signature ‘laksa bombs’ – a marriage of wonton-wrapped chicken and prawn dumplings with a rich curry laksa sauce – have become something of a cult menu favourite. It’s not the same experience as slurping your way through a bowl, it’s true, but it’s a deliciously fun take on the oeuvre nonetheless. hojiak.com.au

Up the escalators in a nondescript food court, Happy Chef certainly doesn’t do pomp – but it does do great noodle soups. There are 20-plus variations of its cult laksa on offer, from your basic chicken through to fish cake wontons, barbecue pork, spicy tripe and a rendang-like beef, all swimming in a subtly sweet, perfectly piquant broth. Whichever way you decide to go, your big bowl of goodness comes with a choice of thin egg flat egg or vermicelli rice stick noodles, to match your mood. Linens and table service might not be guaranteed here, but happiness sure is. Sussex Centre Food Court, 401 Sussex St, Haymarket; facebook.com/happychefsussex

If you’re after thick, fragrant, Singapore-style laksa, look no further than Temasek in Parramatta. Since 1992, the family-run restaurant has never deviated from the recipes developed by one of the original founders, the late Susan Wong. Even after a change of address – a few doors up the road – this beloved Western Sydney institution has remained a reliable constant, dishing up hundreds of bowls of laksa Singapura to grateful customers every week. The zesty and spicy broth is made with coconut cream for a rich and moreish soup that clings to every strand of your choice of noodles – egg, rice, or both. 2/100 George St, Parramatta; temasekrestaurant.com