After imprinting themselves on Melbourne’s affections with their birria tacos, CDMX is keeping the flavour-packed flame alive with monthly showcases of regional lechon (charcoal fired pork) specialties. October was all about the Yucatán-style lechón taco, the protein going mano a mano with xnipec salsa, a fiery relative of pico de gallo made with fresh habanero peppers. Spread your taco flavour ambit further with the lengua (braised ox tongue), longaniza (house-made Mexican pork sausage) and suadero, AKA confit beef brisket. Get in line for a festive $10 Taco Tuesdays, $6 Birria Mondays and Tequila Thursdays, with $15 margs and palomas. Multiple locations; cdmx.com.au

There are strong speakeasy vibes at this subterranean spot that makes a mockery of its Chinatown location with late-night taco adventures. Neon lights, loud music and candlelit tables set the scene for a flavour-packed journey to Mexico City. Taco fillings stray across the dietary-requirement board, from marinated pork belly with tamarind salsa – just add crackle – and fried market fish with guac and chipotle mayo to a bunch of vegan options, including battered zucchini with corn crema and beetroot chorizo, all served on soft corn tortillas with house salsas. Meanwhile, the drinks list celebrates mezcal in all its smoky glory. 55 Little Bourke St, Melbourne; bodegaunderground.com.au

Celestial Avenue is indelibly associated with Cantonese food, thanks to longtime tenant Supper Inn, but the recent arrival of Taqueria Sin Nombre (‘taqueria without a name’) has introduced a bold new flavour profile. The first bricks and mortar outfit from the folk behind food truck Dingo Ate My Taco, the furtive operation in a sliver of a space is open only on Friday and Saturday evenings. House-made tortillas come loaded with fillings including Texas-style brisket, kangaroo asada and classic slow-cooked pulled pork. Special mention goes to the chicken skin chicharron, a delicious crispy crackling by-product of smoking the chooks. 12-14 Celestial Avenue, Melbourne; instagram.com/taqueriasinnombre.melbourne

Super easy to like, this colourful joint has won the hearts of Seddon village with its attention to the fine print of the taco multiverse: the zesty choice of house salsas, the rich and slurpable consomé de birria for dunking the braised beef tacos, the hand-pounded guacamole that retains its textural integrity. And when you’re just in the mood for perfectly crunchy fish tacos, the beer battered barramundi numbers have your name on them. Choose your vibe, whether it’s the streetside shopfront, the cosy room by the open kitchen or the lure of the light-strung courtyard on a balmy night. 82 Charles St, Seddon; superchido.com.au

Raising Melbourne’s taco game since the OG opened in Fitzroy at the start of last year, this tiny but mighty joint has recently spread its elevated ambit to a St Kilda beachside kiosk. Both venues are the home of barbacoa (pit-roasted) meats guaranteed to make any native of Hidalgo misty-eyed with nostalgia. Beef brisket with green tomatillo sauce and chorizo and onion are standouts; head bayside for a seafood spin including calamari and pico de gallo, or taco mar y tierra (sea and land) with porterhouse and prawn. But save some room – Mexican flan for dessert is a must. Multiple locations; elcolumpio.com

La Tortilleria’s nixtamal corn tortillas are served at venues across Melbourne, so it makes sense to cut out the middleman and grab a table at La Tortilleria’s in-house cantina. Kaleidoscopic in both decor and flavour, it’s the transportive scene for an 11-strong taco menu rocking fillings ranging from the classic pork al pastor – showing its perfect synchronicity with pineapple – to the trendy (birria tacos with a side of consommé for dunking) and the dietary avant garde, like the plant-based chorizo number, which takes the pain out of going vegan and also happens to be perfect with a smoky margarita. 72 Stubbs St, Kensington; latortilleria.com.au

You could argue that Mebourne’s Mexican revolution started here, at the first-floor walk-up that whisks guests from Collins Street’s Paris End to somewhere south of the border. The stone-ground blue corn tortillas are pressed to order – get yours wrapped around the beer-rich, slow braised brisket, the lamb birria (saucy in more ways than one) and crisp sweet potato. The fidelity to next-level salsas and sauces remains as staunch as when this hot mama opened in 2010. It’s also highly recommended to check out younger sibling Hotel Jesus in Collingwood, where the tacos and a cinematic fit-out vie for supremacy. Level 1/11 Collins St, Melbourne; mamasita.com.au

Plenty of us remember lining up outside the Smith Street shed housing the OG Frankie’s for their late-night taco fix. Frankie’s has gone legit in a bricks and mortar operation on nearby Johnston Street – the red signage is an echo of its roots – but the taco brilliance remains very much intact, and the support cast is wider. Guest stars like lamb birria tacos lift the baseline excellence, weekly specials keep things interesting, while a sexy fit-out and a cracking drinks list full of Mexican beer, natural wine and – of course – the classic marg – makes it a good choice for date night. 30 Johnston St, Fitzroy; tortasandtacos.com.au

In the upper reaches of Curtin House, Mesa Verde blends brooding glamour with a whole lot of Mexican soul. Moody lighting, dark timber and rows of premium tequila bottles set the tone, and the tacos bring it home with top produce like braised O’Connor brisket, beer-battered fish and pulled pork, with garnishes grown on the rooftop garden. Crisped brussels sprout leaves with peanut mole and roast cauliflower adobado with frijoles and avocado crema are also here to recalibrate the vegetarian offerings; an Oaxacan spiced chocolate creme brulee will end your night on a high note. Hit the red sangria on $5 Taco Tuesdays, or enjoy $10 margaritas every night from 4-6pm. Level 6/252 Swanston St, Melbourne; mesaverde.net.au

Just off Lygon Street, Taquito is the perfect Melbourne-by-way-of-Mexico-City joint, slinging margaritas at the front and Oaxacan food with a contemporary slant in the unexpected warehouse dining room out back. Sleek and modern, it’s the kind of place where the corn tortillas are made in-house and pressed fresh. Sprightly combos like chicken thigh with apricot mole push out the boat, as do interesting vegetarian creations (‘Impossible’ mince with potato and Maggi aioli, anyone?). Grab a four-strong taco tasting flight and dive into a superb drinks list featuring small-batch mezcal and classic and signature cocktails. 350 Drummond St, Carlton; taquito.bar