delicious. national restaurant critic Anthony Huckstep sure gets around. In this new weekly series, he’s going to take us on a journey around Australia, pointing out his favourite restaurants in every possible category. This week he’s getting excited about Australia’s best French restaurants. Ooh la la!
Old-school is cool, as we eschew complex chef-driven cookbooks for tried and tested food writers such as Elizabeth David. Speaking of old-school, Sydney’s Hubert is at the front of a French revival, á la Escoffier. Expect to see more.
Another restaurant that delivers a certain je ne sais quoi within the wonderful French renaissance we’re experiencing. Legendary chef Ian Curley has given the space into a contemporary spin on the classic French bistro. There may be crisp linen tablecloths and considered service but its all about relaxed, comfort food – with a touch of ooh là là. Start with lamb sweetbreads then hit the steak frittes with café de Paris, or roasted John Dory. www.frenchsaloon.com
Two bites of the cherry here, but Guillaume Brahimi’s bistro is that good. They may be housed in Casinos, but once inside they have all the swagger of Parisian saloons and Brahimi’s food is not only some of the best French down under, he’s a culinary king who’s helped transform the culinary landscape. Make sure you start with twice baked soufflé with Roquefort sauce, mussels marinières followed by a classic coq au bin. Check out Guillaume in Paddington, if you want a step closer to the pointy end of dining. www.bistroguillaumemelbourne.com.au
She’s grown up in restaurants and her father is perhaps the most influential chef down under, but Josephine Perry is making her own mark with a bright, spirited French bistro with classic woven-cane chairs, tiled floors, tablecloths and food that stretches the ideals behind French bistro. It’s a contemporary twist on classics that haven’t forgotten the building blocks of great French technique. Think chicken liver parfait with cornichons, tenderloin, bone marrow and café de Paris, and tart tartin. www.missyfrench.com.au
Quaint, kitsch and comfortably casual. Once inside you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in the heart of Paris. Lipstick red chairs and banquets, white tablecloths, giant mirrors and a swinging little bar to sidle up to. The room might, melt hearts, but the backbone of French technique behind chef Shannon Kellam’s dishes lays the platform for food that will leave many speechless. www.montrachet.com.au
