In 1987 Buon Ricordo opened its doors to the people of Sydney’s Paddington with chef Armando Percuoco at its helm and has since become an inner east institution. While Percuoco will retire this month, fans of the establishment will be relieved to hear that the Italian eatery will remain in good hands, with longtime chef David Wright taking over as both owner and head chef alongside partner Rosalba Bertocci.

Wright has more than enough experience for the role, having been head chef at the Sydney favourite for the past seven years. “I have made Buon Ricordo my home. It’s more than just a job for me,” he explains. It’s not a responsibility that he will take lightly. “We have a certain legacy to pay attention to. It’s not so much about me as a chef, but about Buon Ricordo as an establishment, an institution.”

Wright arrived as an apprentice at the restaurant at the age of 17, rising the ranks to become owner at the age of 30. He gives plenty of thanks to Percuoco for shaping him as a chef. “Armando was more than a boss, he was a father figure,” he explains. “He showed me another whole world or philosophy, which was incredibly formative for me both as a chef and a person.”

Now married to Ricordo sous chef Rosalba Bertocci, Wright admits he owes a great deal to the restaurant and its history. “People have grown up in here, people have been married and baptised in this restaurant. Now we are looking after the grandkids of the original customers.”

Those apprehensive about the news need not fear for Wright has no interest in removing the dishes that have grown beloved to many. “Certain dishes here, people have grown up on them,” he explains of his decision to keep favourites on the menu. But the traditional will now also been joined by a handful of seafood-focused innovations.

Buon Ricordo
108 Boundary Road, Paddington
buonricordo.com.au