Embla has finally introduced its long-awaited junior member of the family with Lesa opening its doors in recent days. As reported earlier, this is the second venture from acclaimed restaurant duo Christian McCabe and Dave Verheul and means ‘to gather’ in Old Norse.

While it shares the same sleek interiors of Embla, Lesa is a complete departure from the original venue, and focused instead on a slower place of dining. “During the construction phase we found the room was really conducive to lingering. We hope that people will feel the same way, and have done our best to make sure it’s a place you never want to leave,” explains McCabe.

Guests will be treated to a regularly changing four-course dining experience which has been promised to be produce-driven. There will also be a six-course option and late-week lunch sittings made available in the weeks to come, incorporating dishes such as raw flounder, partnered with hazelnut, green almond and pear leaf and chicken porridge, with almond milk and black chestnut. “The food will show a selection of old world techniques presented in a new world way,” says Verheul.

Is this the best wine list in Melbourne? It’s in with a good chance thanks to McCabe’s abundant collection of drops which he has slowly but surely gathered since moving to Melbourne. The list has a focus on minimal-intervention Australian producers and old-world vintages, and was designed with the assistance of sommelier Raffaele Mastrovincenzo.

McCabe and Verheul worked closely alongside long-time collaborator ALLISTARCOX Architecture on Lesa, so that it would sit seamlessly into the existing building. The interiors are pared-back and rustic, with ample exposed brick, textural timber, antique lighting, and bespoke steel-framed factory style windows integrated throughout. Warm wooden banquette seating padded with black leather, round European oak tables and reclaimed farmhouse benches host larger groups form the seating options. The kitchen is the real centrepiece; lined in tiles of glossy bottle-green, a wood-fire oven sits in its its centre, neighbouring which is McCabe’s glass-fronted wine room.

Lesa, Floor 1, 122 Russell Street, Melbourne, llesarestaurant.com.au.