ISH has arrived in Fitzroy to turn what you know about traditional Indian fare on its head. The new venture serves up contemporary Indian cuisine, where the traditional mingles with some rather unexpected modern flavours. Owner Ganeev Bains describes it as ‘Indianish’. “Indian cuisine is continually evolving and at ISH, we’re hoping to bring this same energy and passion to the table, but with an understanding of how Melburnians like to dine,” he says. His team will consist of celebrated Indian chef Sainyam Kapoor (The Park New Delhi, Farzi Cafe) and sous chef Himank Bhardwaj (Barbeque Nation, Taj Group of Hotels).

Renowned Indian interior designer (and mother of Ganeev) Annu Bains collaborated with Studio Round to create the physical space for ISH, which the team believes merges the sleekness of Melbourne with the warmth of India. The restaurant is split between two levels, both laden with bespoke fittings and furnishings from India. Seating is varied, with downstairs home to intimate leather banquette seating and communal tables, while upstairs serves as more of a traditional dining space, round tables included.

The traditional and the modern has been married in the ISH menu. Dishes seek to offer twists on traditional favourites and include the likes of: ISH free range chicken tikka, caramelised onions, and roasted garlic ‘burrani’ yoghurt; slow-cooked home-style Kerala beef curry with malabari parantha; and butter-poached scallops, served with South Indian coconut ‘moillee’ curry. For the sweet of tooth there are also options, including a saffron sago pearl pudding served with jaggery praline and mixed nuts.

199 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy; ishrestaurant.com. @ISH_restaurant.