Nan Kroll and her partner Julio Forteza are passionate about Chilean fare. So much so that the couple (who met whilst Knoll was living in Chile) decided to bring it to the Melbourne suburbs, establishing Citrico; a neighbourhood bar and restaurant with a South American edge. “We realised that there is a lack of Chilean food represented in Melbourne and we wanted to change that and share this unique cuisine with Melbourne,” explains Kroll.

‘Citrus’ in Spanish, Citrico has been named in ode to the strong influence of citrus in South American cuisine. “When I lived in Chile, I would visit the Cevicheria at my local market every couple of days, the combination of raw fish and seafood cured with all sorts of citrus was so fresh and delicious and something that I missed being so accessible when I returned to Melbourne, so the idea of Citrico came about,” explains Knoll. Taking care of the cuisine will be head chef Daniel Salcedo, who was previously at Rockpool Group, Rosetta, and Peruvian restaurant Piqueos. Being Peruvian himself, Salcedo is familiar with South American flavours and combinations, and has brought his own twist to the Citrico menu.

Sharing is front and centre to the menu, with a six-dish strong Chef’s Selection available, though punters are also welcome to drop in for just a drink if they desire. If you were interested in a nibble you will find the menu multiple takes on ceviche, including Choros a la Chalaca made from New Zealand green mussels, tomato, red onion, sweet corn, cilantro and jalapeno. Other small dishes include conchitas (grilled scallops paired with chilli butter and lomo saltado sauce) and pastel de choclo (corn eggplant terrine with humita sauce and charred provolone cheese). There are also heftier bites available, cooked on the custom-made charcoal grill in the kitchen, including the polop and calamar (grilled octopus and squid marinated in Nikkei amarillo sauce) and a free range chicken marinated in Panca. Sweet treats range from a Peruvian doughnut made from sweet potato and pumpkin (dubbed a picarones) and helado, a passionfruit ice cream with biscuit crumbs and purple corn tuile.

Wash down your mains with South American-inspired cocktails and beers. Classic tipples including Pisco Sours are integrated, accompanied by a wine list comprising drops from Chile, Argentina and Spain, as well as Victoria. Citrico has also imported a plethora of Chilean and Spanish beers to match, including Kross and Moritz, as well as South American soft drink Inca Kola.

The space has been designed by Antonia Frew Interiors, and crafted in ode to Citrico’s Chilean roots. The country’s status the world’s largest producer of copper has inspired the inclusion of two large copper topped bars within. There’s a multitude of tables to choose from inside, or the opportunity to eat under the sunshine thanks to a courtyard out back. For those who prefer to be in amongst the action, the chef’s table comfortably seats ten.

Citrico sits at 376 Queens Parade, North Fitzroy. It’s open for lunch and dinner from 12.00-11.00pm Thursday to Sunday, and for dinner Monday-Wednesday from 5.00-10.00pm; citrico.com.au.